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Half way there...

TomcatPC

.270 WIN
Last week I bought a New Haven 600AT. In the meantime I obtained an 18" barrel for it, and I planned on swapping out the checkered wood (plan on keeping) for un-checkered buttstock and a ribbed fore-end. Got the fore-end from Havlin today. Very happy with the product and service.

Here it is...



I'm not sure if this was an "aftermarket" fore-end or actual Mossberg made product?, not that it matters.
I was listed as "Mil-Spec" which is fine with me, because I'd love this shotgun to look like something used during my USN Service in the late 80s'-early 90's.

I have the Buttstock on the way from Numrich, it is listed as "GI Surplus", see how it looks when it gets here.
If I want to put the 28" C-Lect Choke Barrel and old wood back on, it will be no problem, so it's like two shotguns in one...not a bad deal really.
Mark
 
I have the same "corn cob" forend on my 1988 500A. Pretty sure it's factory Mossberg.
 
The GI surplus stocks from Numrich are hit or miss.

I've ordered a couple. Some looked great, while others needed a bit of refinishing. Keep us posted...
 
I bought it with the impression that it would need some work to it. If I don't have to do anything, then totally awesome, if I do have to do something...I can deal with that. So far my luck from Numrich has been good... Will probably have to wait until next year to know though...LOL.
Mark
 
I'm under the impression that the GI Surplus Buttstocks do not have a sling swivel?, or will I be surprised in a good way and they do have one? I'm counting on having to buy and install one.
Mark
 
This is an old 500AT I had that I cut the non vent-rib barrel down to 18.5" from 28". I don't know if the foreend was original as it was a darker hue than the stock. This has the "long" slide tube, BTW. I know someone here had a question about that and I just found the pic in my archives.
 

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The stock got here today. Other than being very dirty (which I expected) and one of the buttplate screws being broken off, it is in decent shape overall. Except that...it is about an inch shorter than the original stock that came with the gun. I guess I can deal with this?, not certain how big of a deal it will be, but did not expect that. Maybe I won't even notice it once I get it all sorted out?

The colour is close to the fore-end, but it is not varnished. So, either I strip the varnish off the fore-end, or I varnish the stock? I sort of like the look of Boiled Linseed Oil finish, like on my Lee-Enfield's, but can live with either.

Yeah, there will be some work to do LOL.
Mark
 
My last one had a broken screw as well.

The length may not turn out to be an issue once it's mounted but just in case, watch your thumb placement the first time out to the range with it. The change in LOP could result in your bottom thumb knuckle being too close to your cheek bone. That scenario has resulted in many a black eye...
 
Not certain if I want to install the sling swivel myself?, or pay someone who most likely not bugger it up like I might LOL? Then again, not sure why I "need" a sling? I've never actually had to "carry" a firearm anywhere over 50 yards other than from the car to house, to the range etc LOL. Other than a few times during my Alaska days, I've never had to haul a shotgun over my shoulder, but just in case LOL!!!
Mark
 
That is some good advice, I like that my Martini-Henry Mk.II has a special spot on the action body just for the thumb so that recoil does not jam it in your face.

How did you end up getting the broken screw out? Mine is broken off almost flush with the wood. The one solution I can think of, involves removing just enough wood to get a grip on the screw with pliers, etc. Then there would be enough wood remaining deeper that the new screw could grip. Hope that made sense?

I'm going to have a couple friends look at this stock in person before going any further on my own...they know more than I do when wood working is involved.
Mark
 
That is some good advice, I like that my Martini-Henry Mk.II has a special spot on the action body just for the thumb so that recoil does not jam it in your face.

Learned it the hard way when I switched over to the Hogue short LOP stock for the first time. It wasn't pleasant. Had to train myself to align my thumb pointed straight forward to the right of the safety rather than wrapping it over the stock. Keeps the bruises to a minimum and I'm quicker on the safety now...
 
I'd like to keep the "traditional" look and just go with a regular swivel. I've installed one before and might have the confidence to do it again. But I'm going to ask for help I think.

I wish I knew what sort of sling swivels were used by the US Navy in the 80's and 90's on the Mossberg 500's that were used then. I'd love to have this one look close to that, as that is when I was in the USN. Not sure if there was a "standard" set of swivels made for that purpose, or a suitable commercial set of sling swivels were used? Weird questions just keep on coming LOL.

The very few times I saw shotguns in the USN, I kept my distance and did not close up to ask questions and take notes LOL!
Mark
 
However this turns out and all the little fiasco's that happen on the way...I'm having fun doing it LOL!
Thanks for the help.
Mark
 
Amen to that.

Wish I could offer some help, but I'm more predisposed to demolition than I am at making anything useful. Our very own @ripjack13 is the resident woodworker here and might have a suggestion or two for drilling and installing the sling swivel in the wood...
 
Lemme see what I can find out and I'll report later. I never had to put a swivel on but I can't see it being a tough job.
 
image.jpg Boiled linseed works well and is very easy. I did my marlin 1894. Sand down the stocks, no need for stripper. Apply first coat of linseed, rub it in real good. Let it dry, the grain will raise, sand with fine paper, clean and apply new coats as see fit. I applied a satin clear on top of the linseed after a few days and she looks great. I would do both stocks at the same time so they will match.
 
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