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ADJUSTABLE POWER: Hunting Scope Options

cadd> I put it on a long .223 target rifle, but the reticle is actually calibrated for a 22-250. The reticle is very fine.

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Cadd, I haven't used a reticle of that shape. Could you take a pic of the instruction book that describes those lines? [I'm a mil dot man.]
 
I have the S1 reticle.

The holdovers are 100 yards based on a 22-250 and the windage is 5 miles per hour at the inside of the short line tree and 10 miles per hour at the outside end of the short lines.
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I don't care for any of those reticule's. My favorite was the old Redfield 4 Plex which isn't around any more and next the duplex. Of course I do not shoot more than 300 yds at game animals and hardly ever that. My favorite's I have now are two old Denver Redfields I bought new back's in the 1970's. a 2 3/4x and a 1-4x. I do have a very old 3-9x Banner on my 25-06 and not the first problem with it, been on that rifle well over 25yrs. Have a couple new Nikons and a couple new Redfields. Not much bad to say about either. One of the Nikons had a BDC retucule and I don't like it even a bit but tried to get Nikon to put a duplex reticule in it and they won't do it. That was depressing. I do also have an old Weaver K4 and that is a nice scope but no on a rifle at this time. Something I like about the newer scope's over my old Redfields is the click adjustments for the cross wires. Old Redfields don't click, they work on pressure. And they might be finer to adjust but at the same time just a little goes a long way. The adjustment's on the 2 3/4x at 1" @100 from mark t mark. On the 1-4x they are 1/2" @ 100yds. But the ability of them to see through in low light is unbelievable!
 
Forgot. I don't have any problem's with the new low cost scope's, but I don't ever buy the super inexpensive scope's any more. Had at one time a Tasco 3-9 that worked very well a lot of years and now serves time on a kids 22 RF. I don't have a problem with $150 scope's so long as they are something I've either experienced good with, my Redfield's, or a brand name I'm familiar with from past experience.
 
I used to favour simple reticles, German No.4 being my favourite. Recently been using a couple with BDC marks and you know what? Wish I had stuck with simple. I guess like most things it depends what you want from it, however for general use, hunting, mid range target simples better. I may have to trade back to some more basic scopes....
 
My 4 1/2-4x Nikon has that BDC reticule and I hate it. Tried to get Nikon to change it out and they wouldn't do it! Otherwise it's a really nice scope
 
Don Fischer, I too have a Redfield. I love it. It is the accurange reticle. It’s not the simplest by any means but I do actually really like the circle around the cross hairs.
 
Not sure if this applies to everyone here but there is one thing most people do not realize about a BDC reticle.

Without going into a lot of detail there are two types of scopes, First focal plane and Second focal plane.

With first focal plane, as you adjust the magnification the reticle will increase or decrease in size as you zoom in or out. It scales proportionaltly with the magnification.

With a second focal plane scope the reticle will appear the same size regardless of the magnification.

Vortex has a good video describing the two designs:



Most scopes sold are of the second focal plane design.

The thing that most do not realize is that the BDC, mil dots, etc are only accurate at ONE magnification, usually the strongest.

They are also calibrated using a specific bullet weight at a specific velocity at a certain elevation at a specific temp, etc. Change any of those factors and you change the ballistics and will have to manually adjust. BDC scopes can be very effective but you have to know the ballistics of the ammo you are shooting and how they correlate to the marks in the scope. I believe NIkon used to, any may still, provide a calculator to tell you how your specific ammo will correlate to their BDC.

As a side, speed adjustable crossbow scopes are second focal plane BCD scopes. You tune them for the speed of the bow by zooming in or out until you find the magnification that matches the drop from 20 to 30 to 40 yards, etc. Once dialed in you cannot change the magnification or you screw up the settings at different yardages.

If you already know this, OK, but perhaps it will help sopmeone who does not.
 
Never knew that. Do know that scope's back in the 70's did just what you said as first focal plane. I have a 1-4x still from back then but it doesn't change at all that cn be noticed. I didn't know that about the BDC reticle either. Have never tried to use it, just annoy's me it's there!
 
I mentioned the Redfield accurange reticle. It’s a second focal plane. Just like you said Mike, it’s set for use with certain weights of certain calibers, not exactly a BDC reticle but close enough.

I can use mine that way but had to first figure out the ballistics of what I’m using and had to know the size of the lines and difference between each point (which changes with magnification because of the second focal plane). With a 100 yard zero, each point after that close coincides with 250, 350, and 450 yards. So it’s a little homework and honestly more than I need for my general use. But the reticle doesn’t get in my way or interfere, and I find the circle to be very helpful.
 
So I have an Osprey scout scope 2-7x for my 464. The current bases put it too far back though for this long eye relief scope. My thought is to put an XS Sights scout rail on to get the thing further forward. I would like to also put a peep sight on, and only put the scope on for hunting. Anyone know how much taking a sight off (after it is zeroed with the new rail) will mess things up? If you tighten it down the same as it was before it was removed, will it be pretty close so you only have to tweak it back to zero?
-BK
 
So I have an Osprey scout scope 2-7x for my 464. The current bases put it too far back though for this long eye relief scope. My thought is to put an XS Sights scout rail on to get the thing further forward. I would like to also put a peep sight on, and only put the scope on for hunting. Anyone know how much taking a sight off (after it is zeroed with the new rail) will mess things up? If you tighten it down the same as it was before it was removed, will it be pretty close so you only have to tweak it back to zero?
-BK

If it were me, I’d rather have some sort of quick release rings so everything comes off together rather than removing the scope and leaving the rings. I think that would offer the best chance of putting things back together with the least possibility of shift.
 
That's a good idea. I took a quick glance and it doesn't look like a quick-release set that would fit that rail costs very much either.
Thanks!
 
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