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Camo~ patterns and techniques for firearms, bows and gear

It sure does.

Those are some nice guns btw.
 
Yeah! Not a bad lil shooter. Shoots nice and accurately. Only trouble is the action is kinda heavy and it chokes on anything but mini-mags or stingers...which happen to be in very, very short supply up here.

Haven't seen squat for decent 22lr ammo here in ages and ages. So haven't been plinking much with it...conserving what I have.
 
Yeah, I think so too.

Or at least more correct.
 
Anyone have any suggestions for making a 590 camo'd, but non permanent.....a buddy of mine wants to camo his but doesn't want it permanent ...

His comment to me was this...

"What do you think is the best camo wrap these days for someone that doesn't want to paint their gun? Mine is a Mossy 590 A1 pump so I need something other than a non-stick wrap because that won't work for the moving parts, but something that won't leave a bunch of sticky crap on the surfaces when I take it back off."
 
I saw some of that at my local tractor supply and it was on the clearance rack. I'm not sure what color(s) they were, but if anyone is interested, it may be an ideal place to look for it right now.
 
DO NOT PUT THAT CRAP ON BLUED STEEL OR NICE WOOD!!!

Last year I was preparing for my first duck hunt. The closest thing I had to a hunting shotgun was my Browning Cynergy O/U, so I bought some of that wrap and put it on it.

The gun sat in my safe for about a week until the weather warmed up and scuttled our planned hunting trip. I didn't want to leave the gun wrapped up for an indefinite period of time, so I removed it.

I was horrified to discover the barrel was starting to rust and the wood finish was turning white in patches, mostly around the grip. I was lucky with the rust. Some Eezox on a patch and a little elbow grease made it completely disappear. I tried a couple of things on the wood, but then found that just rubbing it with my bare hands (enough to generate a little heat) the white patches were fading. I spent several hours watching TV and rubbing the stock and foregrip which finally restored the wood to it's former beauty.

True to it's advertising, it did not leave any residue behind. It did, however, almost destroy a fine shotgun.
 
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That wrap looks good.

How does it work?

Is it die cut for specific firearm, user cut?

Permanent adhesive?
 
They have pre-cut kits for AR, AK, Shotgun, and basic rifle stocks.

The AICS chassis is a bit of an odd shape, so I went with their Gear Skin 8" x 50" sheet and cut it to fit. It applies with heat like shrink wrap so I just used my heat gun and a razor knife and it went on really easy. It holds on really well, but all you need to do to remove it is just peel it off. Doesn't leave a residue behind. The videos on their site are very informative and show how it's done.

Here's their Shotgun Skin application video...

 
John A. said:
I am using duracoat, however, it's been a few years since I bought any and I'm on the last of my supplies just doing this project and to be honest, I'm not sure who has the best pricing right now.

Matter of fact, the paint I used yesterday was too dated, but it was probably 3 years old or maybe a little more, but the newer (fresher) stuff I had in the cabinet is working fine, but duracoat is slow as hell to dry especially when it's cool and low humidity.

Depending on which kit you are interested in, this one (having 2 part paint and clear coat with hardener) is probably as good as duracoat or maybe even better.

http://www.camodipkit.com/products.htm

I like the new ATACS camo pattern these guys are offering too.

http://www.camodipkit.com/patterns-camo.htm

You'll still have to buy one of those plastic storage tubs to dip your parts in at walmart or kmart or somewhere because your better half will kill you if you try to use the bathtub or sink.

But the link above is probably the best option out there as where "quality" is concerned.

There are some other places that are cheaper that are selling little rattle cans of paint and clearcoat with the film kits but they're not nearly as durable as using good paints for cheaper.
Click to expand...


well I haven't had time to do a lot of posting but I learned a ton about this this summer

My son started a hydro-graphics business in Merlin over the summer. There is actually a lot to it that makes the difference between a backyard job and a professional type job
He has the heated recirculating tank, guns.....all the stuff. He already has done a couple guns, lots of car parts, animal skulls for hunters and other stuff

He did some stuff for his car that he was showing me, mounted to his car. I thought it was cool but said " as soon as you take that through the brush its probably not doing to good?"......he took out his keys and keyed the crap hard enough that it would have peeled car paint......I was impressed.

He is doing my 18" for a Fathers Day gift, Kryptec Highlander.
After he ran me through the "professional" process and keyed his car I have no issues putting this on my rifle.

I think he is going to do good, there really is only one more place in Southern Oregon that does this and its hard to get them or find info on them

I am going to weld him a big stainless tank this winter, should be cool
 
That is fantastic.

He's certainly going about it the right way if he's going to be doing this commercially.

I know how big of a fan you are of the kryptic hylander pattern. I've heard you mention it a few times.

Sounds like he has things well under control.
 
Oil that's awesome! I really like the mandrake and hope to get my 835 dipped even if I do it my self.

Can't wait to see it when he's able to do it Oli!
 
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