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Rose Action Sports - Choke Tube Installation

MikeD

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I have a 18.5" security barrel for my Mossberg 930 that I wanted to get drilled and tapped for choke tubes. I wanted a shorter barrel for turkey hunting and I thought the ability to change chokes would make the barrel more versatile than the fixed cylinder bore.

I sent my barrel into Steve Rose at Rose Action Sports for this work. I opted for Invector and I already had a set of choke tubes for this configuration.

The cost for this service is $90 and the requirements are as follows as per an email from Rose Action Sports.

Rose Action Sports said:
12 GA Barrels: To accept Win-Choke threading (same as the Browning Invector and Mossberg 500) the outside diameter of the barrel at the muzzle must be .845” or larger. If the diameter is between .825” to .844” I can thread it for Tru-Choke tubes. If the diameter is between .805” to .824” I can generally thread it for Thinwall tubes. (Thinwall tubes are for lead shot only)

20 GA Barrels: To accept Tru-Choke tube threading the outside diameter of the barrel at the muzzle must be .705” or larger. (Tru-Choke is the only type of 20 GA threading we offer at this time)

Here are some pics of the finished product

RoseActionBarrel_002_zpsme3jzh0y.jpg


RoseActionBarrel_001_zpsfx7d2hf9.jpg


The only negative I have, which was a concern I had prior to sending it in, is that there is not enough metal left outside the choke tube to really hold the bead securely. I have already decided on solution to this and will post it in a different thread. If this procedure had been performed on a vent ribbed barrel this would not be an issue.

Overall I am very happy with the work and would recommend them. I have a couple more barrels that I would like to install choke tubes in the future and I will most likely be sending them here. The price is good and none of the local gun smiths can drill/tap the barrels for RemChoke or Invector threads
 
I see your point. That is some thin tubing on the end of that barrel. As for my suggestion on a fix for your front sight, drill it farther back from the muzzle just before the thread starts. And even installing a secondary mid bead would be alright too.

Or perhaps some form of electronic dot on the receiver. Though I'm partial to beads on my scatterguns.

But he did a real good job on the internal machinework and threading.
 
I see your point. That is some thin tubing on the end of that barrel. As for my suggestion on a fix for your front sight, drill it farther back from the muzzle just before the thread starts. And even installing a secondary mid bead would be alright too.

Or perhaps some form of electronic dot on the receiver. Though I'm partial to beads on my scatterguns.

But he did a real good job on the internal machinework and threading.
http://www.amazon.com/XS-Sight-Systems-SG-2003-3-Trituim/dp/B00PNDX5LU

This is what Im trying to work with. What little thread I have should help with lateral movement and JB Weld should help with the rest.

I thought about moving the sight back but I already tend to shoot high with this barrel and that would make that situation worse unless I went with a taller sight.

Other option, one of the smiths at Willians Gun Sight said they could silver solder remington bases to the barrel that would allow use of their fire sight components. I like the fire sights and have them a two guns but they arent the brghtest in really low light, the fiber optic needs light to glow.
 
I have a Williams firesight on my XD.

Being a fiber optic sight, has no glow without light.

Works great most of the times I ever shoot it. After dark, not so much.
 
The TruGlo TFO is both a fiber optic and tritium. But it's expensive and I think requires drilling a second hole anyway.
 
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