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Installing a glue on XS sight to a Mossberg 930 barrel.

MikeD

I'm Your Huckleberry
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This is a continuation of my thread reviewing the choke tube installation I had done at Rose Action Sports.

When they drilled the barrel for the choke tube they left little material for the bead to thread into.

RoseActionBarrel_002_zpsme3jzh0y.jpg


In looking for a replacement bead I settled upon the XS Sights glue on Big Dot Tritium.

This sight comes with an over-sized bead and the rest of the sight glues over the top of it.

To install this I first cleaned all the oil and residue from the inside/outside of the end of the barrel and the hole for the bead. I places a small strip of packing tape on the inside of the barrel covering the bead hole. I then used a choke tube pushed in backwards to give support to the tape. The tape is to prevent any glue from entering the barrel itself and the tube is lending support to that the bead does not extend down to far.

I did have to do a little filing on the threaded part of the bead so that it fit flush with the inside of the barrel but did not protrude into the barrel.

Once I did this I placed the bead on the barrel and set the sight on top of it. I them placed tape on all 4 sides of the sight to mark it's fooprint on the barrel. I used this as a guide to sand the finish off the barrel and as a way to catch excess glue.

XSSight_001_zpsmcspd9fk.jpg


Here is a pic I took in the process of sanding the finish off. I wanted to the glue to have some rough scratches to clung to as well as attach directly to the metal. This was done with a small piece of plumbers tape. I also sqanded/roughed up the underside of the sight. I see I did scratch the tape back in one spot but coovered it before gluing. Note make sure you sand from tape side to metal, else you will peal back the tape. If you are carefull you should not sand through the tape or pull it back as I did here.

Once that was done I removed all the dust from sanding and glued the bead into place. I then coated the underside of the sight with glue and placed it on the barrel. I used JB Weld for this project as I have had good results with it holding under pressure with other projects. Typically the bead would help hold the sight in place but in this case I am using it primarily to prevent lateral movement and detachment if the sight is hit from the side. Time will tell if my thinking on this is correct.

Once the sight was down I visually made sure it was aligned correctly and used a strong spring clamp to hold it secure and then removed the tape.


XSSight_002_zpsjbvqufcg.jpg


XSSight_003_zpsbifcbitj.jpg


After these pics were taken I also used a small piece of rag to wipe away excess JB Weld and to give it a smother glue line.

It is currently still sitting with the clamp on it. I will let it set like this for 24 hours before removing the clamp and inspecting it furthur. I'll take more pics at that time.

The total process took me about 45 miunes.
 
That is a really good job on that barrel so far. And probably the best option for it all things considered.

I'm looking forward to hearing what you think about it after everything is cured and you have some trigger time with it.
 
I like it as well so far. I'll be patterning this new setup this weekend with some 3" turkey loads (Winchester Longbeard XR #6's).
 
Lookin good, a very good alternative I think to drilling and retapping. The sort of thing that would work for guys like me!

Those LongBeard XR #6s pattern awesome!
 
Lookin good, a very good alternative I think to drilling and retapping. The sort of thing that would work for guys like me!

Those LongBeard XR #6s pattern awesome!
If i had jnstalled this on an unmodified barrel i think I could have just glued it the the bead and it would have been fine.

I think the JB Weld will be sufficient for anything short of a really hard direct hit to the sight itself, which I do not forsee given how I will be using this gun. Though I am curious....

The sight was a little pricy at around $54 but it appears to be an all metal base and just looks solid.

My total cost for tube drilling and sight install is around $150. Still less than a turkey barrel which is 5.5" longer.

I'll try to run some other types of rounds through this weekend as well to see how it performs and holds up.
 
Nice !, I want to do this
Don't do it!!!!!!

It fell off and got lost in the grass & leaves on my first shot. The shot was also about a foot high at 20 yards.

This was also the first time i have put several rounds through this security barrel. My 930 has really let me down for the first time with this combination.

Very disappointing.
 
uploadfromtaptalk1462061636553.jpg

Shots at 20, 30 and 40 with the Longbeard XL. Shot these with no sights and adjusting for the barrel shooting really high. The loads have great potential if you can get them on target

My 30 yard shot was a bit off target but had a good pattern density nonetheless.
 
Don't do it!!!!!!

It fell off and got lost in the grass & leaves on my first shot. The shot was also about a foot high at 20 yards.

This was also the first time i have put several rounds through this security barrel. My 930 has really let me down for the first time with this combination.

Very disappointing.
wow, what went wrong ?......prep sounded good. The JB is where you kinda strayed from the norm ?
 
wow, what went wrong ?......prep sounded good. The JB is where you kinda strayed from the norm ?
Not sure of the issue.

Despite the failure it still shot really high.
 
Weird that it was shooting that high, I always figured the XS bead to be taller.
 
Sorry I did not take a pick before shooting it. I was just too anxious to send some lead down range.

Short barrels without a VR have always shot high for me. When I look straight down the top of the receiver I cannot even see the bead. until I tip the gun up slightly. Because of the contour of the barrel and the short sight radius, the barrel has to tip up in order to see the bead over the receiver. Maybe it's just me but I have always had a problem with this. I never worried that much as I figured most of my shots with this barrel would be measured in feet not yards....until I decided to try it for turkey. The further out I go the higher I shoot.

The XS sight did set higher than the bead. I thought this would have been enough to compensate for me but it was still not high enough apparently. I think the sight would have stayed in place if I had a stable bead to hold it on place. I took a chance and this time it failed. Lesson learned.

I may look into a clamp on short tower sight and see if that works. Of I may just scrap the idea altogether, I'm already over budget for what I wanted to accomplish. LOL

In hind sight I wish I had cut a VR barrel down rather than using the security barrel that has so much contour to it.
 
Two questions:
Did you solvent wash & acid etch the metal before gluing?

If you don't it'll never stick.

Even sanding isn't enough. It may be visibly clean but without the etch it's not chemically clean.
 
I typically just use acetone to degrease metal prior to gluing. Had I found the sight I might try again, I think I will now look for a different solution.

I will take my el cheapo metal detector back the next time I head to that area, which will be soon.

Funny I found thread where another user asked people tought JB Weld would be good enough to hold a sight on and I responded that I would never trust it for that usage. Apparently i had forgotten writing that. LOL
 
Acetone is OK. MEK is better. It's kinda hard to get old stuff clean enough. There's stuff in the pores of even new metal that needs to sweat out. Acids, oils, phosphates, carbon . . . crap you don't want.

In the anodizing & plating biz, hot Tri Chlor Ethylene pressure spray or similar was used to degrease before etching.

We'd acid etch steel with phosphoric acid, or caustic etch with lye for aluminum. If you had an aluminum sight on a steel barrel, you get to do each.

Wash off etch with boiling water, then dry and immediately & paint, plate, anodize, glue, whatever to seal out the oxygen.
 
go back after dark, close your eyes for a minute, open them and find you sights glow ......that's what I would try if I didn't have access to a metal detector

Smartypants! I often look for lost metal in the dark with a flashlight.

If it's steel, I might duct tape some magnets to my boots and go walk through the grass.
 
Acetone is OK. MEK is better. It's kinda hard to get old stuff clean enough. There's stuff in the pores of even new metal that needs to sweat out. Acids, oils, phosphates, carbon . . . crap you don't want.

In the anodizing & plating biz, hot Tri Chlor Ethylene pressure spray or similar was used to degrease before etching.

We'd acid etch steel with phosphoric acid, or caustic etch with lye for aluminum. If you had an aluminum sight on a steel barrel, you get to do each.

Wash off etch with boiling water, then dry and immediately & paint, plate, anodize, glue, whatever to seal out the oxygen.


I'm heading back up soon to work on some of the issues I had while at the cabin during my last trip. If by some miracle I find the sight either by it's soft glow or with my metal detector and I decide to re-glue it I'll look into some of these other prep processes.
 
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