715P Flash Suppressor Removal

[Chris Thames]

Good afternoon,

I'm posting here as I read through several of the posts but never saw anything mentioning removing the barrel nut/flash suppressor. I'm going to be honest that I didn't place a lot of pressure on the nut on the flash suppressor of my 715P out of fear for the somewhat "delicate" construction of the 715P. If the nut were integrated into the barrel, application of force could cause damage where the plastic molded pieces screw together; therefore, I didn't want to go too far with trying to remove the nut for what appears to be a flash suppressor.

So my real question is as follows: Is the A2 looking flash suppressor removable (and I would assume counter clockwise while looking at the barrel)? If the flash suppressor is removable, are the threads 1/2 by 28 or is an adapter required.

The purpose would be the feasibility of a suppressor to be adapted to the end of the 715P.

Thanks for reading.

Chris

 

[SHOOTER13]

Welcome to the Mossberg Owners Forum !!

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[LAZY EYED SNIPER]

The flash suppressor on the 715T is removable, so I would assume that's the case for the 715P as well. You should be able to clearly see if it were pinned or staked. Your best bet for removal will be to remove the plastic shell and place the receiver in a vise. This will make removal of the flash suppressor much easier. The threads are 1/2 x 28" and yes, removal will be counter clockwise...

 

[Bobster]

If you are going to be working on guns (and there is nothing wrong with that), particularly the removal/installation of flash suppressors, you should consider making a barrel vice block that won't mar the finish by letting the barrel spin or allowing teeth marks... It is better to clamp the barrel as close to the flash suppressor as possible because that is where the moment of force is greatest.

I made the pictured clamps out of some 1"x1"x2"? delrin? blocks I had kicking around. I clamped a paint stick in-between them before drilling to create a little gap to allow the clamps to grip the barrel more tightly. The blocks shown are 3/4" (hence "3" "4") and were drilled with a 3/4" wood boring bit. I have other sizes created and marked the same way. With the barrel clamped in the newly created blocks, try loosening the flash suppressor with a tight-fitting wrench--rightytighty/leftyloosy as you look at it from the muzzle end. If the flash suppressor doesn't loosen, try giving the wrench a wack with a hammer. A heat gun will be the last option and probably not necessary. Note that the barrel need not be removed from the gun--the clamps will be strong enough to support the gun and hold the barrel tight so it doesn't spin.

BTW, Welcome Aboard, Chris!

 

[David L Laidig]

I'm gonna do this. Vanessa and I are into rapid accuracy at 25 yards. I wanna see it this will keep it on target better. It jumps about 2 inches. Some Canadian called this baby ugly???? Nasty??? yeah.... lol