930 SPX: Add a Picatinny Rail (Cheap 'n Easy DIY)

[Benson X]

I saw the posts from RippSpeed and mb1911 and got inspired to add a rail to my stock forend instead of buying an ETA Bobcat, Aimpro Tri-Rail, or BlackAces Quad. Mainly because I am cheap (frugal) and I like the clean look of the stock forend, plus I like DIY projects.

I started looking for a rail that had a curved radius on the bottom to match the curve of the forend. That way, I wouldn't have to grind or plane the surface flat in order to flush-mount the rail. I ended up with a Millett PC00107, though there are other options that will work (check out my original thread HERE).

I sourced some hardware from Fastenal that worked great, and was compatible with the small counter-sunk holes on the Millett rail.

PARTS USED: *Depending on the rail you choose, you might use different hardware
Curved Rail (Millett PC00107 worked great)
(4) #4-40 Standoff Nuts (1/4")
(4) #4-40 Undercut Flat Machine Screw (5/16")
FAB Defense PTK Angled ForeGrip

TOOLS USED
Drill (drill press or drill guide strongly recommended)
5/32 Bit (depending on the mounting hardware used)
Center Punch
Masking Tape
Pencil, Pen, or Sharpie
Blue ThreadLock


STEP 1: Mark Your Holes

Make sure the shotgun is UNLOADED!!!

• Unscrew the magazine tube. Remove the spring and remove the forend.

• Lay a strip of masking tape down the length of the bottom of the forend. Find where you want to mount the rail, and draw a line on the tape on each end of the rail. Match up the rail with your lines and mark each hole on the tape.
• Remove the rail and use your center punch to tap a "start" in the center of each hole-mark.

STEP 2: Drill Your Holes

• Use your Drill Press (or Drill & Guide) to drill the holes that were marked and punched.
  
  * I used a 5/32 bit, and it was a VERY SNUG fit for the #4-40 standoff nuts that I used (I had to gently "tap" each one into place). Depending on the hardware you choose to match the rail, you may need to use a bigger (or smaller) bit.
• Insert your standoff nuts into each hole and remove the Masking Tape.
  
  * The standoff nuts are through-threaded and 1/4" long, so they will engage the screw's fine threads through the entire thickness of the forend. They also have a hex-flange that "bites in" and keep them tight and in-place.

STEP 3: Mount Your Rail

• Install your rail and barely tighten down each screw.
• Add a drop of Blue LocTite into each nut from the top side (inside the forend).
• Allow the LocTite to work down the threads (tighten and loosen each screw a few times) and then finally tighten down the rail. Double-check to make sure the nuts are not spinning as you tighten the screws.

STEP 4: Install your Accessory

• Re-assemble your shotgun and install your AFG, Grip, Tac Light or whatever accessory your are adding.
• Check to make sure the accessory holds strong and, if possible, fire off a few rounds to insure it holds tight.
• Celebrate saving yourself $100+ dollars by enjoying your favorite frosty beverage

PICTURES

 

[LAZY EYED SNIPER]

Nice work!

Thanks for posting...

 

[DHonovich]

Well done! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Benson X]

Nice work!

Thanks for posting...

Well done! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks LES and Dan, and thanks to RippSpeed and mb1911 for their ingenuity and pioneering this "mod".

 

[MikeT]

This is what I did with my 930 SPX forearm. Magpul five slot rail mounted with its own hardware.

 

[Benson X]

This is what I did with my 930 SPX forearm. Magpul five slot rail mounted with its own hardware.View attachment 6248

Nice Mike, looks legit!

 

[Benson X]

Just an update. the rail is still holding strong after 2 months and over 300 rds. I hope this inspires more 930 owners to do this mod!

 

[Combatvet]

There's a few things I've learned in my shitty life, one is never go cheap when it comes to defending your life. Another is when it comes to something being easy, you'll pay for "that easy" in one way or another.

 

[Benson X]

Very true in most cases, but cheap and easy are both subjective.

Some would consider using a 930 for home defense is "going cheap" and need a Benelli to be 100% legit, while other are perfectly content with buying a Maverick or Hi-Point.

In regards to this mod, I think it's cheap/inexpensive compared to a full tri-rail or quad-rail setup that can have inherent "issues" all their own - i.e added weight, poor fitment, short set screws etc. This mod is 100% functional and I don't question the reliability or integrity at all. It's just a rail attached to a piece of plastic, after all.

It is also easy for a DIY'er, plus you get the gratification of a job well done and money saved.

 

[bigguygonz]

Great mod. Did this yesterday. Was super easy and turned out nice and solid. Thanks for the parts list and the play by play.

 

[Benson X]

Awesome! Glad you found it helpful

Turned out really good!

 

[Cole Dedhand]

I wish I had seen this before I did mine. I went about it a more difficult way. I used a Magpul M-lock rail and filed a flat spot on the forend for the flat rail.

 

[Chadie]

This is what I did with my 930 SPX forearm. Magpul five slot rail mounted with its own hardware.View attachment 6248

Mike, is there any way for you to provide an inside shot of the mounting?

 

[Chadie]

Awesome! Glad you found it helpful

Turned out really good!

Does it matter where you mount the rail? I tried the mod with Magpull hardware and found that it mattered where it was mounted because the standoff nuts would get in the way of the springs and gas parts of the tube.
Are the Fastenal nuts low enough profile that it won't matter how far back or forward the rail is mounted?

 

[Benson X]

The Fastenal nuts I used are very low profile, so they shouldn't interfere with any components.

 

[MikeT]

Mike, is there any way for you to provide an inside shot of the mounting?

I used the Magpul hardware that came with the rail. I removed a bit of material from the forearm so the "nuts" would lay flush.

 

[Chadie]

View attachment 11394

I used the Magpul hardware that came with the rail. I removed a bit of material from the forearm so the "nuts" would lay flush.

I see that... Thank you MikeT

 

[MikeT]

You're welcome. For what it's worth, even though I removed a bit of material for the "backers", the mount is as solid as a rock.

 

[Benson X]

Broken picture links fixed

 

[GriffyGriff]

Thanks for this old post. Really appreciate the effort you put in with the images. Just did the same with my 930.
1. Filed a groove in the base of the rail to match the stock.
2. Used a Dremel to dig out 2 shallow graves where the MLock nuts lay.
3. After locktiting the screws, used the Dremel to remove the excess thread.

Really happy and thanks again