• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

anybody know what length these for ends are?

kurtis

.410
So i just ordered a mossberg 590a1 for a great price and want to make it similar to this one.

i found this set on ebay and hopped on it since i know the corn cob style is hard to find but the seller didnt know what size action tube it came off of. does anybody know what size action tubes the corn cob styles came on? the only reason i bought it without a definite answer was because i saw a few 590s with wood corncob style for ends so i figured it might work.
 

Attachments

  • mossy.jpg
    mossy.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 30
  • mossberga1.jpg
    mossberga1.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 26
  • mosbera2.jpg
    mosbera2.jpg
    57.8 KB · Views: 23
I saw that set last night. Looks like a real nice pair of wood for a pretty good price. You'll have to strip and stain it to get rid of that gloss finish.

Your 590 has a 7 5/8 forend tube which matches that forend.
 
I saw that set last night. Looks like a real nice pair of wood for a pretty good price. You'll have to strip and stain it to get rid of that gloss finish.

Your 590 has a 7 5/8 forend tube which matches that forend.

thats good news and i plan to make it look like the other picture what color stain would that be? would all i have to do is strip it and re stain since the wood is in good condition?
 
Sand and stain, something like 100-180 grit. Minwax Red Mahogany 225 is what you want. Finish with Urethane Semi-Glass or Matte.

You can read as much as you want on wood stain. I highly recommend to practice first.
 
do you recommend practicing on a wood stock or can i use another piece of wood that is similar? i do have an extremely beat up table that could use a good refinishing haha.
 
Practice on something that does not matter. But remember that each piece of wood will stain in a different manner.
 
any suggestions on what stripper to use? and would it need sanding if the wood is in good condition? I thought sanding was to get dings and scratches out.
 
I'm not an expert at stocks and forends. Nor am I an expert at wood stripping and finishing.

Me recommendation, take your furniture to your local Home Depot and talk to someone. Stay away from the younger employees but there is some great knowledge there.
 
that was honestly what i was going to do but maybe go to a mom and pop hardware store. I just don't want them to give me the wrong advice and then I'm out a nice set of furniture.
 
I used to be pretty familiar with strippers, but I gave that up years ago.

The Minwax Red Mahogany is a great stain. Used it to restore an AK furniture set a few years back and it worked great...

ak47_210.jpg
 
There is a multitude of information available for refinishing/staining/sealing wood. Frankly there is too much. I'll give the rough-and-ready overview and try to answer any questions.

If you like the wood you can keep it as-is. If you want a trenchgun you'll have some work to do.

Wood is stained (very shallow) and possibly coated. Yours is certainly coated by the look of the pictures, aka shellac.

It is possible to remove the gloss shellac with a stripper (acetone or commercial paint stripper). This is a bad idea. The solvent will turn that gloss into a bubble-gum sticky mess. And guess what? You'll have to sand to remove the stain anyway.

So get sanding with about 100 grit. Sand through the sealant/shellac/top coat and get to the stain. You will need to sand past the stain to get clean, virgin, white wood. Don't worry, the stain does not penetrate deeply and will sand out rapidly.

So now you've sanded out all the coating, stain, scratches and whatever else. You've left with nice clean unblemished white wood. You need to finish sanding, up to about 180 grit. Sanding very fine will leave a smooth finish that does not take a stain real well. Sanding coursely does the opposite. Your choice.

Done sanding. Blow the wood off with compressed air. At this point you can water pop to increase staining (not recommended). Soak the wood in warm water for a moment or just bathe with a damp towel. Wait a few minutes and the wood grain will open up to accept stain. Shotgun stocks are fairly porous and take a stain well so I do not recommend water popping.

Hand rub the stain into the wood. Wipe excess off with damp towel. Let dry for minimum 24 hours. Recommend topcoat with spare urethane. Remember that common aerosol urethane is one step less than what is stated. In other words: gloss is actually semi-gloss / satin actually flat, etc. Recommend Semi-gloss for the desirable satin look. Dry for another minimum 24 hours. The smell will always be there.

This stuff takes practice but first-timers can get good results. There are all kinds of methods, tip, tricks. Most of the time wood will stain the way it wants to and the operator has very little control of the final product. This is a big reason practice may not work. What does great on one piece won't do nuthin for the next piece.

Remember for a deep, dark stain: sand coursely (up to 120 grit). Water pop. Let stain soak in for extended periods.

Not-so-deep stain: sand fine (up to 180 - 220). Do not water pop. Do not let stain soak for long. Do this for shotgun stocks. They tend to take stain very well.

Confused Yet? Don't worry. End result looks like this.

 
that was exactly the look im going for! Thanks for the thorough explanation i feel a whole lot better about it now. One last question, is there any tricks to sand the corn cob for end? I feel like i would be sanding those ribs down trying to get all the stain out in between the ribs.

And thanks for all the help guys.
 
Last edited:
Fold a piece of sandpaper.

Use it crease down and you can get down into the gaps between the ribs. If necessary you can fold it around a thin file or something to give it a rigid spine...
 
You could also check your local hardware store and get a small roll of sandpaper. Tare it into thin strips about 18" long and with the forend held secure use the sandpaper in the ribs like you were shining a shoe.
 
What he said. No worries about sanding too much.

There is an advanced maneuver to get the inside ribs darker than the rest, for that coveted vintage look. But I can't give away all my secrets :D
well you have to share now! the picture you posted is exactly what I'm looking for.
 
Back
Top