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DIY 13" LOP stock!

Discussion in 'Mossberg 500 Pump Action' started by aksavanaman, Jan 4, 2016.

  1. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    I would venture to say that at least 50% of the modifications I see here on MO relate to stock replacement and changing LOP (Length of Pull) of your standard Mossberg 500/590/88 etc...

    Now you're not without options, since there's quite a few manufactures that make aftermarket stocks for our beloved scatterguns. Most folks will drop the $60 on a Hogue short LOP (12") stock that works really well. I've owned and used one, and the quality is great! BUT, 12"... at least for me is a bit too short.

    So what if you're like me and are looking for the sweet spot middle ground? Magpul's SGA stock is highly adjustable and a good option... at $100. Aimpro advertises a custom Hogue built 13" LOP stock on their website for around $55... BUT Aimpro's customer service last I heard stinks worse than my dogs morning poop, and orders sometimes take months to be fulfilled. You could go with an adjustable pistol grip stock, but will be handicapped when it comes to using your tang safety.

    Well sounds like you're SOL huh? Fear not, I've got a DIY option that only takes a bit of time, some patience and some basic tools.

    You'll need a saw.. table saw or band saw would work best. Whatever will allow you to make a nicely perpendicular cut to the comb. A bit of sand paper to clean up edges, a drill and small bit for your new buttstock screw pilot holes. And a good measuring tape, as the golden rule always applies! I used calipers, made it pretty darn easy!

    The only part you'll need to order is the Limbsaver (Model #10102) recoil pad... I got mine off of Amazon for $32.

    Here's what you're starting off with... about 14.5" LOP from factory


    Next I measured the hight of the new recoil pad, you can skip this step if you'd like and just take off 1.5 inches square from the end of the stock, but I wanted to be sure.


    Next mark your stock for your cut, as said... right about 1.5 will give you the correct width and hight for the new recoil pad... and your new 13" LOP!

    IMG_0294.JPG IMG_0295.JPG
    LAZY EYED SNIPER likes this.
  2. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Now on to your cut.. I used my table saw for an easy 10sec job...

    and... done...cut... you did it! (No worries if you messed up... you can find these on ebay for next to nothing or ask another MO member for theirs!)


    Here's the fitment...


    It's not absolutely perfect. The stock is slightly thinner than the hard plastic plate on the recoil pad.. if you feel so inclined you could sand this down to match... I'm ok with some electrical tape. If you want extra pretty.. spend the extra bucks and buy one ;) If you want practical and wallet friendly... stay tuned.

    Next step is to drill the new buttstock screw holes. The package was supposed to come with a screw template, mine didn't so I tried making one..

    It worked out better to just align the recoil bad and use a Sharpie or punch to mark the new holes.


    I can't remember the size bit i used.. but slightly smaller than the screws themselves. I set the screws once before tightening it down with the recoil pad. That way I made sure to stay straight, and it was much easier than torquing it down with the pad in the way.

    All that's left to do is reinstall your stock screw (you don't even need a new/ modified one like the Hogue!) and tighten down your new recoil pad. I used a bit of electrical tape to mask the seem and keep clothes from catching the stock.


    There ya go... 13" LOP!

    RichardL, 12gafun, Van Doren and 5 others like this.
  3. ripjack13

    ripjack13 Resident Sawdust Maker Staff Member Administrator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Great post AK!!! I love seeing people doin it themselves.
    Just remember folks, when cutting stuff that is not flat,square or whatever, push sticks and your miter gauge are you fingers friends....cut safely folks...
    aksavanaman likes this.
  4. MikeD

    MikeD I'm Your Huckleberry Staff Member Global Moderator "Philanthropist"

    Well done!!
  5. oli700

    oli700 12g Supporter "Philanthropist"

    your the man !
  6. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    I still preffer the wood stock, but since this was laying around I figured I could put it to use. I think the most complicated part was lining up the recoil pad screws. When I made the marks the top one was just barely touching plastic... but if you notice in the picture above, those wholes on the Limbsaver are oval, allowing for a little bit of flex on where to drill the whole. Worked out just fine.
  7. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Anyone care if I throw this up as a sticky in the 500 section?
  8. cutter_spc

    cutter_spc .22LR

    LOL, was just wondering if this could be done, if the screw mounts in the stocks went back far enough. Never thought I would be able to get away with little to no grinding though, my hats off to you sir, good job!
  9. cutter_spc

    cutter_spc .22LR

    Do you think you could have used the old pad if you ground it down? The pad on mine is different than yours and may have a metal plate inside, kinda feels that way. I will check it out with a magnet and see. Weekend project here I come!
  10. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Not sure... I haven't found a good way to grind down rubber... although the original pad is pretty stiff. But I've got one to play with;)
  11. cutter_spc

    cutter_spc .22LR


    I have only done one in the past for a rifle I have. I bought one of those jigs to use on a bench sander, followed the instructions and took my time, it turned out great.

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