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Dry Lube Showdown

blacksmith

.270 WIN
Dry lubricants have generated a lot of interest of the last few years, no doubt fueled by experiences in The Sandbox. Dry lube products are now readily available due to demand. Debate rages over these products as much as the snake-oil liquid lubricants. We will lay down some bare facts but first we'll clear up some myths.
  • Gun oil attracts dirt. It is not a magical magnet, although debris does readily adhere to it.
  • Dry lube doesn't prevent corrosion. Dry lube can seal the steel and help prevent oxidation.
  • I can only use one-or-the-other. Oil does very well over dry lube.
In a humid environment we're concerned with lubrication and corrosion prevention. In a dry environment we're concerned with lubrication that isn't sticky.

With high humidity the best solution is oil over dry lube. Oil alone also does very well. If we're dealing with blowing powdered sand than dry lube alone may be best. No lubrication is always the worst performer.

Many dry lubricant products are available.

  • Silicone. Although it feels slick to the touch this is actually a poor performer. Mainly used for its dielectric and non-toxic properties. Applications include sealing electrical contacts and food service equipment. Note: contrary to popular belief petroleum lubricants are also good insulators. Anti-seize grease is a good conductor due to powdered Al or Cu. The main task for so-called antiseize is to ground a spark plug to a cylinder head.
  • Powdered. Graphite or PTFE in dry powder or aerosol. Great for enclosed systems such as lock tumblers. Otherwise not recommended since it simply wipes off. Example: PB Blaster Dry Lube.
  • Baked-On. Outstanding performance and highly recommended. Unfortunately not DIY. Commonly found in AR15 upper receiver.
  • Wax Film. Similar to chain lube. Works good not great. May need to be buffed to eliminate excess buildup. Example: Teflon Non-Stick.
  • Hybrid. These are dry lubes which don't actually dry. Liquid is buffed and result is a slick film. Preliminary tests show lots of potential. Example: Otis "Special Forces" Gun Lube and WD40 Specialist.


500 after sand storm. Still functioned but downside of oil-based lubricants is clear.


We have two test tubes for a scientific experiment. We're putting BreakFree CLP against WD40 Specialist in both corrosion and debris tests. Both tubes were stripped with acetone prior to application and the center section is the control group. In the corrosion test we have each section wrapped with saltwater towel. For the debris test we'll dust the tube with powdered sand and then wipe clean.






Powdered with Sand



Wiped with Dry Cloth




We expected Dry Lube to be the clear winner in the debris test and that is not what happened.
  • Control group (stripped bare) stuck sand pretty well, both before and after wiping.
  • CLP stuck very well, and stuck larger grains then the others. Harder to wipe off and left heavy residue on the cloth. However was good-to-go after wiping.
  • Dry Lube stuck less then the others before and after wiping. Wiping was E-Z and left little residue on the cloth.
Lesson learned: sand sticks to everything, and can be wiped off from everything. Dry lube performed the best but not by a significant margin.
 
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We expected BreakFree to be the clear winner in the corrosion test and that is not what happened. In fact after 24hrs in the salt solution we struggled to get any corrosion.
  • Control group (bare) performed the worst with obvious oxidation
  • Both CLP and Dry Lube did an adequate job of sealing the steel. If I had to choose I would say Dry Lube did slightly better.



So what have we learned?
  • Anything is better than nothing.
  • Performance of oil and dry lube appears to be quite similar.
 
blacksmith,,,,if you want to start some fast corrosion put the metal in a box with a swimming pool chlorine tab.

I had an open bucket of them in my workshop once and it rusted everything metal in the shop.:mad:
 
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