• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

FINALLY FINISHED: Crafting wood furniture for a Mossberg 590 Shockwave

Well 450°F seems pretty reasonable. If you get up to that temperature I think ammunition will start cooking off.

600* F is typically where the military says cook-offs can occur.

And why many of the squad and mounted machineguns are open bolt.
 

Is there any chance someone could get an itemized list of what you needed to do all this?
I recently got my shockwave and have been dying to give it wood furniture. Plus the heat shield does indeed look awesome on it.
Tried looking all over online and contacting custom gun stock craftsmen but no luck. They all said the waiting list is a year or that they just simply don't do it.
...and I'm not really confident in my wood working/staining abilities. My experience has been nothing but high school wood-tech, haha

(I literally made my account here to ask cause this is the exact image I had in my head of what I wanted)
 
Welcome to the forum.
You have good taste in guns. Dr. Marneaus did all the wood work on the Shockwave pictured.
He and DarkPassenger308 started with Mossberg 500 stocks.
There is a person on ebay selling something very similar. One of our members bought his grips.
I have not heard of anyone else offering completed wood packages. If you find someone please let us know.
Spend time going through the threads and you should find the info you are looking for.
Keep in touch.
 
Welcome to the forum.
You have good taste in guns. Dr. Marneaus did all the wood work on the Shockwave pictured.
He and DarkPassenger308 started with Mossberg 500 stocks.
There is a person on ebay selling something very similar. One of our members bought his grips.
I have not heard of anyone else offering completed wood packages. If you find someone please let us know.
Spend time going through the threads and you should find the info you are looking for.
Keep in touch.

At no point did I say I started with a stock....
 
So, to follow up on this, after 100 rounds the fioend I made developed a crack, I'll post pics and stuff later. I know precisely why this happened, and I intend to remedy it. I should be able to fix everything about it with some acraglass.
 
Welcome to the forum.
You have good taste in guns. Dr. Marneaus did all the wood work on the Shockwave pictured.
He and DarkPassenger308 started with Mossberg 500 stocks.
There is a person on ebay selling something very similar. One of our members bought his grips.
I have not heard of anyone else offering completed wood packages. If you find someone please let us know.
Spend time going through the threads and you should find the info you are looking for.
Keep in touch.


Hm...I do believe I've seen the one's on ebay. Messaged him as well, but being from Thailand I don't know how I feel about their reliability...
Plus I've heard from some folks that he doesn't modify the sets at all and the foregrip is usually too long so that would require some cutting/sanding/finishing.
On the flip side upon exploring the forums I've seen something I didn't think I'd go for. A synthetic setup. (Mostly a wood furniture fan)
But now a choice...

2009rtv.jpg


Synthetic

Pro's

  • Quicker to achieve the results I want
  • Easier than trying to make it myself
  • Side-saddle is plus
  • Adds an aggressive look to her
Con's
  • More expensive
  • Could end up looking "tacticool" instead of functional
  • Bulky
  • Added weight
  • I'll end up wanting to put a laser on it (More money)
===============================================

Wood

Pro's
  • Looks amazing
  • Retains the clean style of the shockwave
  • More lightweight than Synthetic
  • I love wood furniture on firearms
Con's
  • Impossible to find ready-to-go package
  • Requires tools + materials
  • Modification necessary

What to do...what to do....
 
Smac,

Aside from being a terrific gun, the joy of the Mossberg 500 is that it's so inexpensive you can afford to do both.
 
So I’m presently working on the repairs.

I filled the crack with hide glue, clamped it and let it dry.

Then I wallowed out the end a bit more and made it so the action bar nut had plenty of room on all sides.

Then I masked Everything and smeared a bunch of acraglass in the now too large hole for the nut.

It’s sitting and curing right now. Tomorrow I’ll knock the nut out, clean it up, let it harden, then reassemble :)
 
i was able to pop the nut out this morning, and am letting the Acraglass fully cure. It should do the trick. This not only "stiffens" the wood by applying an iron strong layer around it, but it fits the nut like a glove and therefore distributes the force evenly across all surfaces.

I bedded the action on my Ruger Scout, because the action was off center and the barrel would contact the stock at points. This was alot easier. Unforutnately you can still see a hairline crack, but once its back together it shouldnt be too noticeable.
 
i was able to pop the nut out this morning, and am letting the Acraglass fully cure. It should do the trick. This not only "stiffens" the wood by applying an iron strong layer around it, but it fits the nut like a glove and therefore distributes the force evenly across all surfaces.

I'd love to see a photo of that, if it's not too much trouble. My wooden forend cracked the first time shooting it. Not a big deal to me, as others on this forum educated me to the fact that the thin wood above the mag tube wasn't even included in some of the 500 forend designs. I repaired the crack with glue and re-sanded to fit. Seems to be holding up ok, but I'm curious about your Acraglass fix.

Thanks!
 
I'd love to see a photo of that, if it's not too much trouble. My wooden forend cracked the first time shooting it. Not a big deal to me, as others on this forum educated me to the fact that the thin wood above the mag tube wasn't even included in some of the 500 forend designs. I repaired the crack with glue and re-sanded to fit. Seems to be holding up ok, but I'm curious about your Acraglass fix.

Thanks!

I dont have pics of the finished and cleaned up product yet but here. And mine cracked across the top when I was just making it, before firing it, but thats not the area that broke.

Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by Marn, on Flickr
 
I wonder if the aftermarket company on ebay has had this same problem.
Do you see anything y’all have done that would have created a weakened “link”? Is it possible the tolerances of the corncob allows too much stress on wood, while synthetic materials can take the shock?
Perhaps, soak the wood in a solution that strengthens the structure of wood……linseed oil…penetrating epoxy.....?
Of course that would negate staining….I imagine??? Or stain first???
My history of wood work is on a farm with a chain saw, a nail gun, and a “fairly straight” level.
Once again this forum leads the way on discovering the best ways to upgrade the Shockwave.
Good luck guys.
 
I wonder if the aftermarket company on ebay has had this same problem.
Do you see anything y’all have done that would have created a weakened “link”? Is it possible the tolerances of the corncob allows too much stress on wood, while synthetic materials can take the shock?
Perhaps, soak the wood in a solution that strengthens the structure of wood……linseed oil…penetrating epoxy.....?
Of course that would negate staining….I imagine??? Or stain first???
My history of wood work is on a farm with a chain saw, a nail gun, and a “fairly straight” level.
Once again this forum leads the way on discovering the best ways to upgrade the Shockwave.
Good luck guys.


I don't think anything you could do to soak the wood would strengthen it. FYI Linseed oil never fully dries and can go rancid.

I know exactly what the problem was.

The bottom of the nut, where it mates to the fore end, is inverted. The inside of the fore end, has an angled edge pointing upward, that captures that inverted notch on the nut. As the nut tightens down, it essentially compresses the fore end TOGETHER.

On mine, i made a fairly crappy cut on the inside that was sloped in the wrong direction, it wasn't inverted and it wasn't a flat surface. So, in essence, as I tightened the nut down. it forced the forend APART. Add in the stresses from firing making the forend move forward into the nut even more, and crrrraaaaaccccckkkkkkkk. Also, it cracked through one of my screw holes, not because i didnt drill it, but because the screw was contacting the nut as I tightened it down, again, influencing the crack.

I gave it some thought when i built it, but clearly not enough. had i used a spade bit with these little outside teeth, it would have alleviated the problem.
short-length-spade-bits-393.jpg


Or, had i simply bedded it with acraglass the first time around, it would have alleviated the problem.
 
Tung oil, from what I'm told, takes forevers to "dry" and still doesn't really "dry" I could be mistaken. I talked at length with an old feller from rimfirecentral about all sorts of different choices and oils and options for wood finishes. that being said, none of it is going to add any inherent strength to the wood.

For refinishing i normally use Minwax antique Oil finish, which is a wiping varnish that is based on oils but has drying agents added.
 
Back
Top