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I Just Joined the Club

I think I got gunk on the end of the plastic piece. Probably the J-B. It worked perfectly before the cleaning.

I am not so worried about that. Like you, I think it just needs a little cleaning.

I had to scar up the Mag tube cap. It seized and the pliers made a mess of it. I got the orange plug out with great difficulty. I think it was swelled from oil saturation. I found a pin punch with a perfect size handle and stuck the follower on to that and hand sanded it down until it was again a sliding fit. I tried the ammo again, and stuffed 7 into the tube and all of them shucked out nicely.

I sent an email off to Mossberg to get a price for the boogered up cap, cap screw and follower. The tube may need to be replaced but I am betting that is a factory job.

The rifle does shoot more uniform groups now. I think after a couple million shots fired it will be wore out and I won't give a ...you know.
 
To get the cap out of mine, I took out the screw and just started loading rounds in the tube. After 6 it popped out and everything else with it.
 
To get the cap out of mine, I took out the screw and just started loading rounds in the tube. After 6 it popped out and everything else with it.
O well, I doubt that would have worked. There was corrosion on the cap and it was sticking like glue.

I replied and placed a link on another thread concerning a metal follower. I found the follower but now cannot find the link to the thread. And can't find my reply. If you don't get a notification, I saved the links on my desktop. I will order a stainless steel follower next month.

Search for "Metal Follower". It has the source and my reply.
 
. . . There was corrosion on the cap and it was sticking like glue . . . . Search for "Metal Follower". It has the source and my reply.

I found it thanks.

I was thinking about custom cap arrangement for that tube.

If yours is aluminum it's a bad choice for that part.
 
I found it thanks.

I was thinking about custom cap arrangement for that tube.

If yours is aluminum it's a bad choice for that part.

It got all boogered up easily and filed down easy too, probably aluminum as you say. It is a loose fit now. I will get a replacement. I will be ordering a stainless steel follower also. I will make sure it is at least handsome even if it ain't handy.:cool:
 
It would be great if that tube would come off easily so it could be cleaned without dumping all the runoff into the receiver and action parts. I suppose a rag could be stuffed in there to catch the offal.
 
I mentioned that aluminum would be a poor choice, and for a couple reasons.

The first you know, which is corrosion or "white rust" on the aluminum. This makes the part swell up and seize in the hole.

It happens fast because of the atmosphere of gunpowder residue, plus air, and moisture, causes a situation kind of like battery acid.
The aluminum, touching steel, or brass, will corrode away electrically: Galvanic action.

Remember houses with aluminum wire burning down? It came loose at all the brass screws because of white rust!
It only takes a thin coat to ruin an electrical connection, so the atmosphere isn't such a factor.

The other reason is that aluminum expands 3x as much as steel when you heat it.
It will deform things slightly, causing pressure when hot.
 
For the third time I have received the same answer from Mossberg concerning the first question i asked about break in period. The female who wrote, just as the other 2 people who emailed me said they have been having email problems on certain dates and then answer the same question again.

If they are afraid to back uptheir products I may turn this rifle into a bed post or a canoe paddle and just cut my losses. All I asked for this time was for prices for a cap, a screw and a follower. Of course if she is not eenglish speaking or speaks broken english down there in Eagle Pass maybe she read more into the parts mentioned than what was intended.
 
Things are just falling apart at the seams.

I ended up with 3 new guns from 2 old line manufacturers that had rust in the tubes. What it is with rusty mag tubes I don't have a clue.
 
My buddy tells me that shipping regs limit the amount of lube they use, but this is nutz to me.
 
My buddy tells me that shipping regs limit the amount of lube they use, but this is nutz to me.

Whatever they are doin, it is not right. It is almost like they build em loose and fill the gaps with plasticized grease or resin. They should at least ease up on the warranty requirements: re: if you disassemble it you lose the warranty. But like many manufacturers, they build em cheap and some are good and some bad and it is cheaper for them if they can get people to tear the gun down, void the warranty and pay for transportation themselves.

When I emailed them they answered and said they have never had the stringing problem reported before; also when I talked to a rep, same lie. But I made sure I told them that several people had the same problem. That is most likely why they said email was on the fritz...so they could deny getting any such complaints.

If they don't reply with a solution, I will report them to the Iowa Atty General. If they won't fix it, they will have to refund my money.

I got the gun from Bud's and paid for a lifetime warranty. I emailed Bud's...now I wait.
 
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I got the lifetime thing from Davidson's & they don't care. If you are unhappy, they'll swap it or get you into a better gun.
If you say "I sent it to 3 guys and nobody can fix it", they don't care.

But, you pay, as they are not the cheapest. Final Price depends on the specific dealer, so there are a lot of small shops doing it on the cheap. DOJ allows dealers to mark up the fees 50% from $25 to $37.50, so not everyone charges the same fee. Some claim to charge you no fee, but then the price is $20 or $30 more.
 
I got the lifetime thing from Davidson's & they don't care. If you are unhappy, they'll swap it or get you into a better gun.
If you say "I sent it to 3 guys and nobody can fix it", they don't care.

But, you pay, as they are not the cheapest. Final Price depends on the specific dealer, so there are a lot of small shops doing it on the cheap. DOJ allows dealers to mark up the fees 50% from $25 to $37.50, so not everyone charges the same fee. Some claim to charge you no fee, but then the price is $20 or $30 more.

Bud's sent me a Service ticket so I expect to hear from them any time. If they will replace it I will take a Marlin this time. I can't afford a Henry.
 
My .357 Henry still needs help.
I'm averaging about 1 problem per gun, but some have none. Some have lots. :(
 
My .357 Henry still needs help.
I'm averaging about 1 problem per gun, but some have none. Some have lots. :(

I just got another email from Mossberg and the small parts will be sent out free of charge. The Cap, the screw and the follower. In the mean time I will make do. Next month I will spend the 24 bucks or so for a ss follower.

*** 7/13/16 update: Mossberg and Bud's talked. Bud's is sending me a shipping ticket and Mossberg will give it a going over under the warranty. The lady at Mossberg also emailed me and the parts are on order. I should see them in about 2 weeks.

I don't know what they will be doing to the gun but I hope it shoots better than it has been doing. We shall see.
 
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Another forum I visited quickly...in and out...said to make sure to check the magazine tube and make sure it is straight. Apparently some shooters had trouble with the follower as we have. No one mentioned oil or grit but a warped tube was the problem for one fellow. Just like mine, the last 2 or 3 would not feed, but the first 4 would. I now can load 7 into the tube and all 7 cycle pretty well. I have a little trouble with the 125 gr hollow points but I won't be using them a lot. The 150s and 170s shuck and jive just like they're supposed to do.

I just got another email 5 mins ago from John at Mossberg. I don't know how to get the tube off to see if it is any good but I doubt I will be doing any more work on this rifle. If Mossberg wants to charge me so be it but if they don't repair it and I have to pay, they will have to make it right.
 
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Well, no range trip today. I woke up at about 605 this am and just sat down at the puter. I didn't even get the sleep out of my eyes and the rain started dropping huge drops and the next thing I know my blinds are hitting me on the shoulder telling me to shut the windows. The wind came up and I am guessing over 60 mph and as I shut the windows I saw the neighbor's tree crack off at the ground and take gown one end of another neighbor's shed. Then about 50 feet closer to me in the next to me neighbor their big oak lost a big limb and it was hanging down. There have been several trucks and cherry pickers in and out rutting up the apartments property and cracking sidewalks driving in to clear the trees. The noise is not too bad but I do not like to have the A/C on just to deaden chainsaw noise.

Forecast says flooding in low lying areas and that is where the range is and it too had a lot of big tall trees. Looks like I iwll have to go to the range during the week when there is no range boss there. Life sucks, then it rains.
 
Re. Post 155: I got the parts from Mossberg today. New cap, screw and follower. I am leaving them in the bag for now, till I can get a new stainless steel follower. Actually I cleaned up the other cap and it looks ok. But, I will swap it out and coat it with anti seize stuff.

Someone somewhere described how to remove the magazine tube but it involves screws and a pin. I cannot see anything like that on the diagram. Then I read somewhere else that the tubes are not threaded and have no pins or screws but are held in with loc-tite. That I can believe. The tube on my rifle now is pretty loose but I still cannot remove it. Could be loc-tite and it will take heat to remove it. Not a problem. When i replace the old cap screw with the new one I will make sure the little indent is clean so when I screw in the cap screw the screw centers and bottoms out where it is supposed to. I think mine was off center from the factory. But now with the tube a bit loose it should self center when the gun is fired. Then there won't be any stress causing odball vibrations on the barrel.

I am thinking that about the time I figure all that is wrong with the rifle to make it shoot cockeyed groups, the barrel will be seasoned and the parts will have floated into their proper position and it will shoot much better. Then I can stuck my thumbs in my armpits and walk around all cocky and say, see, I fixed it. And all I had to do is shoot the crap out of it.:rolleyes:
 
Another good article about finding the right load. Interesting is Fr. Frog's comments about how barrel thickness affects how the shots group, and also that each barrel has at least one velocity "node" or sweet spot and if by using a chronograph you identify these sweet spots of velocity, you can adjust your loads to the velocity range for more consistent shots. It is a bit complex at first but it all makes sense...to me. Now.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/loaddev.htm
 
Going back through my notes and I found a side note that said for me to watch for bad primers. I did not remember this note but evidently I had some heavy loads and just thought I should lower the charge a grain, even though it was on the load data in the ammo boxes and within safe specs in the book. I pulled the bullets and dumped the powder back into the proper canister and prepared to reload...just to make sure.

I know I reused a few primers but do not remember how many. I know the day I reloaded so I will pull all those loads and toss the Federal primers. At 3 cents/primer it is less of a loss than shooting them and having to replace all the components. I will have a 30-30 neck sizing die on order at the beginning of the month so that is when I will pop the primers and get rid of them. There cannot be more than 50-60 left loaded. Then I will be starting new loads with Winchester primers and will be saving the Federals for the .308. I know they work well for the .308 loads.

I feel so stupid for being cheap but...O well. I am guessing that many of my lousy groups are at least partly caused by the use of those primers.
 
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