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Mossberg 500 Pump Action Paint and Refinishing

Re: Staining 500 Stock

I beleive it is common with birch/beech as I have researched. It is just a fact of life with these species. Unless you apply a spray stain/lacquer finish, you are going to get the blotchly look. Even with the wood conditioner, it is there, though nto as pronounced. As I said earlier, it is not an unattractive look and I really prefer it to the factory finishes.
Now, if is was a walnut setup, I would be really happy! Nothing looks better than a nice oil finish walnut stock. Ron


John A. said:
If I were a betting man, I would put my money on Ripjacks comments being spot on.

The light spot(s) are probably caused by the stain NOT soaking into the wood, and the darker spots around where you would hold the weapon probably has soaked up some sweat and body oils already over time and physical contact which is reacting with the stain.

Several things can cause that, but is probably in the specific piece of wood itself.

Also, some species of birch has naturally occurring resinous oils in the wood that helps it prevent decaying and may could cause it to resist oil stain from penetrating as well.
 
Re: Staining 500 Stock

Also one other thing (without the risk of abusing my posting priviledge) is the forend.
Has anybody else noticed that the wood grain and stainign of the forend is quite different to the butt stock? Is tht because the forend is cut differently concerning grain? It stains nicely without any dark spots. Ron
 
Re: Staining 500 Stock

Walnut certainly makes for nice wooden anythings. LOL

Before my Dad past away, he made us an entire living room suit with a TV/Entertainment cabinet and two really large Curio cabinets from a walnut tree that had fallen during a bad storm in my late Aunt's back yard.

A few of the pieces even has some of the "defective" white sap wood streaks in it, which I specifically asked Dad to leave in the wood as it gave it some character that you won't find in a production piece.
 
Re: Staining 500 Stock

There is a pre-treatment method for staining wood, so you will not get the blotchy effect. It has to do with diluting shellac down like 4 to 1 and applying to the wood before the stain. I am probably wrong on the ratio as it has been many years since my woodworking days, but I am sure the internet can offer up the formula information.
 
Re: Staining 500 Stock

I have used many different brands of wood stain and treatment and protection over the years, but Minwax is my favorite.
 
Re: Staining 500 Stock

Thanks I already know and read those articles. I used Minwax wood conditioner. MY updates are on my other post on teh finished product. Ron
 
coupla paint projects first Mossberg 500A, Hogue overmolded forend,walnut Buttstock cut down and fitted with Hogue ez fit recoil pad then primed and painted buttstock flat black to match forend. Disassembled gun, had metal done in "Battleship Gray", reassembled and installed Marble's Tritium bead sight. My homemade "Mariner", here she ismossy 1.jpg
 
As mentioned in a previous thread im probably going to be buying a 54303 here soon and painting away that god awful Muddy Girl but leaving the blued finish as is, so just fore end and stock

Anyone know offhand how that finish is done? Is it readily removed or should/could i just paint over it?

If im not interested in painting the metal could/should i skip Duracote and opt for something cheapet like Krylon?
 
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It is probably a Hydro dip process but dont quote me on it.
I have 2 500's I have painted with Krylon. I hunt with these and shoot plenty of clay targets with them.
Krylon holds up great!
 
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