Mossberg 500 Pump Action Paint and Refinishing

Discussion in 'Mossberg 500 Pump Action' started by 30.06, Feb 26, 2012.

  1. Tommyid1

    Tommyid1 .22LR

    Messages:
    19
    Re: Paint that's close or a match to parkerized color?

    Any decent gunsmith should be able to do it for pretty cheap. I'd guess $20 or less. Basically they media blast the part clean it and then it goes into a solution with manganese phosphate or whatever it is and it basically oxidizes the surface and colors it. Makes it porous. And that is good for oil retention and corrosion protection.


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  2. gooffeyguy

    gooffeyguy .410

    Messages:
    41
    Re: Paint that's close or a match to parkerized color?

    Havlin Sales sells a parkerized Mossberg factory heat shield for $34
  3. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    2,826
    Re: Paint that's close or a match to parkerized color?

    ^scratches are the battle hardened scars of a firearm... the more scratches just means more love of the gun in my book! :D
  4. jgwills

    jgwills 20g

    Messages:
    660
    Re: Paint that's close or a match to parkerized color?

    If you are interested in Duracoat, check out Colt gray. Done correctly it will look very close to a typical phosphate "aka" parked firearm. They offer a color they call Parkerized but most folks swear its too light and Colt gray is much closer.

    If you are interested in Cerakote, most folks agree Sniper gray is going to get you something very close to a parked firearm. Your applicator can mix in a little black and OD to get it much more correct to a true phosphate looking color. It will depend on whom you go with to coat your stuff and their ability to do so.

    Also, remember there are two types of USGI park color you have to consider. The more modern Manganese (darker gray, almost black) and WWII era Zinc (lighter gray). Your Cera or Dura coater needs to know exactly what you are after so they can alter the mix of color accordingly.

    Good luck.
  5. JayC

    JayC .223

    Messages:
    359
    Re: Paint that's close or a match to parkerized color?

    Thanks, guys! I didn't know there was so much involved with parkerization. I was thinking about Duracoat, but I couldn't remember the name (I kept thinking Duplicolor). :oops: I was hoping there would be something that was close from Rustoleum or something, as I didn't want to spend a whole lot on it. :mrgreen:
  6. mrblaq2u

    mrblaq2u .410

    Messages:
    69
    Re: Finishes for mossy's

    I did contact Robar and they said they can refinish the Mossy for $450 (price includes stripping old finish, new finish, disassembly and reassembly, field test a few rounds for making sure it functions, and shipping it back) Plus, no money is paid until it's completed. Turnaround is 6-8 weeks, but that's fine with me as I have other toys to play with to occupy my time until it's completed. Not sure how close the finish is to the original but I think it might be worth having her redone anyways. Plus I got some mods in store for her when it has been refinished.

    MRBLAQ2U
  7. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    Messages:
    10,187
    Re: Finishes for mossy's

    I know a guy who had a couple of submachineguns NP3'd.

    They are gorgeous.

    And not to mention the added benefits of such.
  8. mrblaq2u

    mrblaq2u .410

    Messages:
    69
    Re: Finishes for mossy's

    The only problem I have is do I get the NP3 or the NP3 plus! The latter is about $100 difference between the two finishes. Damn I hate making decisions...:)

    MRBLAQ2U
  9. teddawg23

    teddawg23 .22LR

    Messages:
    10
    Painting your 500

    In the past I have seen some pictures on here with some firearms painted in different colors or camo patterns.

    My question is is there a specific paint used? I'm toying with the idea of painting my 500.

    Any information and pics would greatly help. Thanks.
  10. teddawg23

    teddawg23 .22LR

    Messages:
    10
    Re: Painting your 500

    Found this thread for painting with spray paint and sponge technique.

    http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_19/32180 ... tml&page=1


    Waiting for some family members to head out on a vacation and I'll give it a shot on my 500 in a few weeks. Can't wait to try it.
  11. old mossy

    old mossy Global Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    Messages:
    12,134
    teddawg23 likes this.
  12. teddawg23

    teddawg23 .22LR

    Messages:
    10
    Re: Painting your 500

    Perfect thanks! I appreciate the link.
  13. MikeD

    MikeD I'm Your Huckleberry Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    10,251
    Re: Painting your 500

    I repainted my 835 using Cerekote.

    Project thread link: MikeD's 835 project gun

    The type of paint used will be pretty much dictated by the amount of time and effort you want to put forth.
  14. teddawg23

    teddawg23 .22LR

    Messages:
    10
    Re: Painting your 500

    Great thread. Took you through the ringer with the grease but great turnout. Thanks.
  15. Tanker

    Tanker .223

    Messages:
    143
    Staining 500 Stock

    Is it common for Model 500 stocks (I assume Birch) to stain blotchy? I tried 2 different pieces of wood (Birch), one with conditioner and one without and they both appear with some dark areas, especially around the pistol grip and top of the wrist area.
    It doesn't look bad and really I prefer it to the spray on finish on Mossberg stocks. I figure if I stain with a red mohogany/walnut mixture, it will have that nice reddish/brown color and with a linseed oil rubbed finish, it will certainly be easier to touch up scratches.
    Any thoughts or opinions? Ron
  16. rdm76mav88

    rdm76mav88 20g "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    819
    Re: Staining 500 Stock

    I spent an hour on youtube the other night learned alot about stock prep can't wait to grt my set and although the st looks great I still want to clean and re stain!
  17. aksavanaman

    aksavanaman Work In Progress... Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    2,826
    Re: Staining 500 Stock

    Birch is certainly not the best wood for stocks, but until boyds comes out with a nice walnut set for us... We're stuck. From my limited experience with different wood types, birch is pretty soft, and inherently more absorbent. So when it comes to sanding...it will be easier, but the previous stain will have penetrated deeper.

    I sand mine down as good as I have the patience for, then use a pre stain and follow the direction... This should help your actual stain blend better and appear less blotchy. Then make sure you're letting eat coat dry well (this is not my strong suit... That patience thing again ;) )

    Then your on the right track with linseed oil (birchwood Casey is good too), but cut it with some sort of thinner first, otherwise you'll be waiting till christmas 2014 for your stock to dry :)
  18. ripjack13

    ripjack13 Resident Sawdust Maker Staff Member Administrator Forum Moderator Supporter "Philanthropist"

    Messages:
    13,014
    Re: Staining 500 Stock

    The blotch could also be the oils still inside the wood.
  19. Tanker

    Tanker .223

    Messages:
    143
    Re: Staining 500 Stock

    I have found when using raw linseed oil, is to mix 1 part Japan dryer to 3 parts linseed oil. It will give it enough time to really absorb into the wood and still dry in reasonable time. I suffer from the "patience bug" also but the key on the oil finish is to use just a little and then really rub into the stock. That way it builds up avtough durable finish and if it gets a scratch or ding, a quick rub with some oil takes care of it. I never did care much for the sprays on finishes gun manufacturers use on hardwood stocks. I think they are not durable and look cheap. These are my opinions only as other folks like them. Don't mean to sound arrogant or rude. Ron


  20. John A.

    John A. I'm "THAT" guy Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    Messages:
    10,187
    Re: Staining 500 Stock

    If I were a betting man, I would put my money on Ripjacks comments being spot on.

    The light spot(s) are probably caused by the stain NOT soaking into the wood, and the darker spots around where you would hold the weapon probably has soaked up some sweat and body oils already over time and physical contact which is reacting with the stain.

    Several things can cause that, but is probably in the specific piece of wood itself.

    Also, some species of birch has naturally occurring resinous oils in the wood that helps it prevent decaying and may could cause it to resist oil stain from penetrating as well.

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