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Motor Oil.

Rossignol

Rossignol

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I know we've talked about the motor oil thing before, and I've gone back and forth with it my self, but I've been experimenting over some time now.

I've been oiling my guns with Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0W/40. It doesnt go on sticky at all and covers easyily but is the high viscosity. I havent found that the oil collects or traps dirt or residue any more than regular Hoppes no. 9, which I most commonly use.

The only thing is that the 1911 needs more oil (and needs to be cleaned more frequently) compared to our Mossbergs which need only a light covering (and rarely need to be cleaned), but in either case the action is almost a metallic whisper.

Additionally, the oil has held up to firing and trips in the woods, and at no point have any of the guns seemed to lack for lubrication between "routine" cleanings. For the Springer this is like every time out, for my Mossbergs its more like whenever I'm bored enough.

The synopsis; I like it. I like it well enough to continue experimenting with it into a couple more seasons!
 
Sometimes I think every type of activity that has anything mechanical involved has it's own "specialty"
chemicals. "For my boat", "For my car", For my guns" etc.- there is always some "expert" telling us what to use. What ever works is fine......but time will tell. Sure- it may wear a little and only last 50 yrs instead of a 100???? Go for it, but let us know if you find a problem.
 
Will do, I'll be sure to update as we shoot more and with the changing of the seasons!
 
Never tried motol oil...I just use CLP ( Clean, Lubricate, Protect )... and a little elbow grease. ;)

But if it works...I say why not. I imagine it's cheaper...a quart of oil as compared to a bottle of Hoppes No. 9 or CLP.

Especially if you grab the PeP Boys oil change deal...4 quarts and a Fram oil filter for $12.99 !! :lol:
 
SHOOTER13 said:
Never tried motol oil...I just use CLP ( Clean, Lubricate, Protect )... and a little elbow grease. ;)
Click to expand...

I use CLP as well, but I had a question about it (sorry to hijack your thread :lol:). What all do you apply it to and how? I've been breaking the 500 down, soaking anything metal, including the entire inside of the receiver, with it by putting a drop or two on it and rubbing it in with my finger, using a brush when needed, and letting everything set for 20-30 min. Then I go through with a clean patch soaked in CLP and wipe everything down just to make sure all contaminants are off. Then I take multiple dry, clean patches and wipe it all down. Take a second, less soaked patch and go over everything one more time, except the inside of the receiver this time, and reassemble. I'm worried that I'm putting to much on though. I haven't got to fire it since I took her out the first time so I'm not sure if this method will cause me to collect excess residue/powder or not. Also, do you coat the outside of the barrel with CLP or just let it be?
 
After reading your procedure...you basically got it right.

I make double sure the firearm is unloaded by working the action a few times and looking inside the chamber...there is never any ammo in the room!!

Then field strip and identify any real dirty parts ( usually the chamber/ejector )...which get treated with a little CLP and put aside as I clean the inside of the barrel with wet then dry patches till clean. ( I do NOT leave CLP in the barrel. ) The receiver then gets toothbrushed with a little CLP on the bristles until clean. The bolt and rails are also wiped down and I too use my fingertip to lightly apply the CLP. Basically, any moving part...metal on metal gets a lite coat.

The reassembled gun is function tested ( action worked and trigger pulled in safe direction ) then wiped down with a lintless silicone cloth before being stowed away...
 
AR15.com has a ongoing thread about using motor oil and which one.
An old gunsmith I knew used Automatic Transmission fluid. He'd buy it in 55gallon drums and repackage it in pint and quart bottles.
 
Do you use it on your hunting gun? Or just the nonhunting ones?
Also....have you used them in the winter? Does it get sluggish?
 
How about the smell of Mobil 1? I keep my shotty on a homemade rack that slips between the mattress and the box springs and is hidden by the ruffle thing around the bed. I don't to smell motor oil when I am trying to go to sleep. lol
 
SHOOTER13 said:
Especially if you grab the PeP Boys oil change deal...4 quarts and a Fram oil filter for $12.99 !! :lol:
Click to expand...

Ok, but what will I do with the filter?

Ripsnortr said:
I'll look forward to the 100 year report as well.
Click to expand...

You get it HERE, first!!!

ripjack13 said:
Do you use it on your hunting gun? Or just the nonhunting ones?
Also....have you used them in the winter? Does it get sluggish?
Click to expand...

I have put the motor oil on everything we shoot! Motor oil may not be the right word as its the 0W/40. I wouldnt use 0W/40 in any engine of mine. I havent used it in winter yet so I dont know how it will react. That is actually one of my concerns. I've only been using it for the last few months and a couple of our outings have been for a dozen rounds or so only, once at the farm in the field, but mostly in the woods.

cbshooter said:
How about the smell of Mobil 1? I keep my shotty on a homemade rack that slips between the mattress and the box springs and is hidden by the ruffle thing around the bed. I don't to smell motor oil when I am trying to go to sleep. lol
Click to expand...

The motor oil doesnt smell any stronger than, and really not even as strong as CLP. When I'm done, I can still smell CLP or Hoppes cleaner and not the oil.

I'm diggin it. It may not be great all year round as we get sub zero and 100 + degrees, but I'm willing to find out!
 
I haven't had a chance to give motor oil a try but its on the list of to dos!
 
ladytech777 said:
LAZY EYED SNIPER said:
Man, I love the smell of a clean gun!
Click to expand...
And maybe Napalm in the morning!
Click to expand...

:lol: From working in construction for so long, one of the smells I miss is diesel equipment being started first thing in the morning!

DHonovich said:
I haven't had a chance to give motor oil a try but its on the list of to dos!
Click to expand...

Dan, you may really like it, but I dont know about using it with autoloaders, around gas seals n stuff. It may be ok, It is fully synthetic...
 
SHOOTER13 wrote:
Especially if you grab the PeP Boys oil change deal...4 quarts and a Fram oil filter for $12.99 !!

Rossignol wrote:
Ok, but what will I do with the filter?

=====================

Don't you change the oil in your car ?! Use it for that... :mrgreen: ( I really was just half kiddin' )

BTW...good note on the seals...I found this in my research:


Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W 30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing nonsynthetic on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil. One store attendant told me I shouldn't go back to regular oil after changing to synthetic. Then he said it would be okay to add a quart of regular oil to synthetic, if I needed to top up. Another clerk said I should never mix the two. At a different store, the employee said it didn't matter if I used synthetic and then later replaced it with regular oil.

A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.


Read more:

Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic - Popular Mechanics

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars

Also a good read:

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-synthetic-oil

http://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/synthet ... eview.html
 
Thanks Shooter, I appreciate you lookin into all that and posting the links!

Uhh, well, my old Toyota... I replace more oil than I change! :lol:
 
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