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New member here with intro and question

i'd say you didn't have a good grip with the dry hands slipping around. also well tucked under your arm. if she can't handel it you might have to go to plan B,,,,,get her a smaller gauge.

also looking around mossberg 510 min 20ga comes in 10 1/2 lop.
 
She's already told me what "plan B" is! To start with, she has firmly stated "no more firearms" for now. :( She's gettin' to where she can confidently hit a 4" circle at 100 feet with her Ruger 10-22, and can unload the 10 round magazine as fast as she can pull the trigger and hold her shots to a paper plate at 25 feet. I think 10 hollow point .22LRs to the chest would deter most intruders. So I think the 10-22 is going to be her home defense weapon. I'll just go ahead with my plans to re-stock the 500 with a stock I like and maybe start doing some bird hunting with it. I'll keep an 18 1/2" barrel on it primarily and use it for home defense. So guess I'm still looking at the ATI Akita, unless someone gets me headed in another direction. :lol:
 
No old mossy, it's "yes ma'm"! :lol:

All kidding aside, I understand there are a lot of Hogue Overmolded fans on the site. Any comments about that stock and fore-end? Why is it better than the Akita? What do you like about it?
 
Well with the 12" LOP stock you can really get in close with your shotgun and some people find themselves getting a better grip and cheek weld. Hogue makes a bunch of quality products that are well worth the price. I have the Hogue Over-molded Forend on my Mossberg and I LOVE IT! I used it hunting this year and when it rained I had no problem getting a good grip on the forend. I highly recommend the forend if you can get anything at all.
 
"I used it hunting this year and..........."

That was the only thing that had me concerned about the Hogue. As I mentioned in my first post on this thread, I used to shoot trap.............and hunted birds occasionally. Didn't the shorter stock hinder your tracking? I know that rubber grips help in the wet weather because I've used my Ruger Blackhawk in the rain with Packmayer grips and the difference was amazing. I'd pretty much settled on the ATI Akita because it would adjust from a "shortie" to a more comfortable hunting length, but now you've got me more interested in the Hogue. Also, I have an ATI stock on my wife's Ruger 10-22 and know how slick it is in the rain. That had me concerned. It's one thing to use a plastic stock inside the home, and yet another to be out in the weather with it.

I just e-mailed Hogue to see if they offer the 12" LOP stock in the Realtree Woodland color. I'm getting tired of the more popular black tactical look and long for something more traditional. I realize the Realtree isn't the old wooden stock, but I've noticed how much more easily concealed the Realtree weapons are in the woods..........much more than all black.

Thanks for your comments. Very helpful.
 
You may want to try to incorporate the push-pull technique with the high tuck position to mitigate recoil. GunnyGene used the high tuck position in the military so maybe he could guide you on technique.

If you are having trouble with the high position you may want to try the CAR high position, different because you are bladed. In this position you don't fight recoil and let your arms swing with the recoil.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
 
Pick up a 25 round mag for that 10/22 , in case there are two intruders.

I can smoke on clay with the Hogue 12"lop. One thing to remember is when you shoot with a bladed stance of a traditional wing shooter is you may bump your nose with your thumb wrapped around the wrist of the stock. I never have had it happen to me but seen it happen, I have not hunted birds with mine but I have beat some brush looking for elk with it. Never shot one but I would have no resevations and was sure to kill one if I ran across it.
Also very nice to have the short LOP because it still shoulders nice and fast with pack straps running down my shoulder, you might be stuck with black but you could paint it…..animals don’t care what color it is….neither do bad guys
 
WolfPak said:
You may want to try to incorporate the push-pull technique with the high tuck position to mitigate recoil. GunnyGene used the high tuck position in the military so maybe he could guide you on technique.

If you are having trouble with the high position you may want to try the CAR high position, different because you are bladed. In this position you don't fight recoil and let your arms swing with the recoil.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

It's been a long time, but recoil control is very similar. In high tuck, you pinch the stock between body and arm snugly, so that your body absorbs some of the recoil as the gun moves back, but let your arms act as shock absorbers.
 
oli700, rubber is hard to paint and get it to stay there. Don't think I'd want to mess up a nice stock.

Gunnygene, here's the stance I used:

p1437945806-2.jpg


When the firearm is canted out like that, there's no tucking it under the arm. When it came back under recoil, it whacked the devil out of my middle finger. Like I said, my hands were extremely dry and I probably didn't have a good grip on it...........and should have been "counter" gripping on the fore end. Never thought about doing that. (or "push-pull" technique like Wolfpack put it.)
 
i might be wrong but i understood the paul castle to be the over the barrel position.
the high tuck is the bill groce position.
 
Chris C said:
p1437945806-2.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking at this picture from an ergonomics stand point, it appears that there is some locking points in the body. If you look at the left arm, it is locked from shoulder to elbow into the body. The angle of the forearm from the elbow will be the movement absorbed in recoil. Additonally if you look at the right arm it appears to me that he is locking the stock to the right forearm. On recoil, the elbow will remain locked, and the shoulder will pivot. The friction lock of the forearm and stock looks to help keep control of the firearm.

This looks like something to try.

Frank
 
Well, I'd be the last to quibble over who's name is applied to the various techniques...........because I'd just be "blowin' smoke". Suffice it to say, I hit a 3 pound coffee can 3 times at about 35 feet, so wasn't disappointed with the accuracy...........just the pain! :lol: And I'm sure in a life threatening situation I'd not be concerned with the pain. I'll try capturing the stock under my arm and counter the recoil some by pushing forward on the fore end next time I try it.
 
Frank Castle said:
Chris C said:
p1437945806-2.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking at this picture from an ergonomics stand point, it appears that there is some locking points in the body. If you look at the left arm, it is locked from shoulder to elbow into the body. The angle of the forearm from the elbow will be the movement absorbed in recoil. Additonally if you look at the right arm it appears to me that he is locking the stock to the right forearm. On recoil, the elbow will remain locked, and the shoulder will pivot. The friction lock of the forearm and stock looks to help keep control of the firearm.

This looks like something to try.

Frank
Click to expand...

Frank, I agree with you about the left arm............but the locking of the stock to the right forearm is a stretch in my opinion. I'd buy it if the forearm were duct-taped to the stock. :lol:
 
Chris C said:
Frank Castle said:
Chris C said:
p1437945806-2.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking at this picture from an ergonomics stand point, it appears that there is some locking points in the body. If you look at the left arm, it is locked from shoulder to elbow into the body. The angle of the forearm from the elbow will be the movement absorbed in recoil. Additonally if you look at the right arm it appears to me that he is locking the stock to the right forearm. On recoil, the elbow will remain locked, and the shoulder will pivot. The friction lock of the forearm and stock looks to help keep control of the firearm.

This looks like something to try.

Frank
Click to expand...

Frank, I agree with you about the left arm............but the locking of the stock to the right forearm is a stretch in my opinion. I'd buy it if the forearm were duck-taped to the stock. :lol:
Click to expand...

I am just going off of what I observe with the cock of the wrist, tension in forearm, and the grip. To me if you just held the grip it would be a lot to contend with when the gun went boom. It makes sense to me in my mind. I am not near my gun, or will be for another week and a half, so I can not try it.

Frank
 
Old mossy - you are correct the high tuck is Groce. The high tuck is mostly a non-bladed stance with the shotgun tucked under your arm. I would think that recoil management is harder with this technique, but I'll need to try it at the range.

I have not trained under Paul but have read extensively about his system and watched all his YouTube videos. Paul Castle's C.A.R. positions are all bladed in stance as you can see in my previous post and they are the high position, combat high, extended and apogee. The extended and apogee are shooting positions that use the sights of the gun. The combat high is a carry position for looking for additional threats between encounters. The high is a shooting position without the use of sights, but using the barrel as a sighting system by keeping it in line with your chest. I believe Paul's theory was that the height of your chest lines up with another person's chest which its where you want your shots to impact.

Frank - all your comments are correct. When I used the CAR high position I just focused on keeping the barrel parallel to the ground and at chest height (about 6" below my eyes). I let the gun act like it was riding on a rail in a back and forth motion.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
 
Chris C said:
Of course I was being facetious, Frank, but the duct tape sounds like a good idea :eek:
Click to expand...

10-4. LOL. A little Off Topic. But in another thread with Fienstiens bill. If a fire arm has a grip it will be banned. I made a comment on shoulder pads/fore arm mounts. Duct Tape would work great.

Frank
 
Back several posts ago, in this thread, I asked about the Realtree Hogue in the 12"LOP. Didn't get much comment, so contacted Hogue. They responded and said it was NOT available. So I asked it if was possible to cut off the regular stocks, as some people had said they'd done with other brands and they said they didn't think so. But I'll ask the same question of those of you who own the Hogue stocks. When you remove the recoil pad, does it look as if the stock could be shortened to a 12"LOP?
 
I don't have experience with cutting down stocks but to my knowledge you cannot cut down the regular stock to make it 12" LOP. At least that is for the synthetic stocks, wooden stocks can be re-drilled for the screws that hold the buttpad but the synthetic cannot.

I wasn't hunting with the 12" LOP but with the Over-molded forend. I will say though that if I had been using the 12" I would have felt every bit just as confident as with a fullsize stock.
 
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