Saiga .410 semi-auto

[Dysfunctional]

I acquired a Saiga (pronounced "sigh-gah" and not like the game console) .410 shotgun by Izmash (Russian manufacturer) that was imported by Kalashnikov USA. It is a first generation (they are producing 3rd gens now). This is how she looked when I acquired her. The previous owner had exchanged the original stock for a Tapco adjustable.

I did my conversion:

- Fire Control Group
- JTE performance main spring
- Trigger guard
- Extended mag release
- Krebs Mark VI-S safety selector
- M4 commercial size stock adapter
- M4 VLTOR stock
- Saw grip
- Tromix Shark muzzle brake
- Carolina quad-rail
- Tromix charging handle knob
- Noveske K-9's
- HUD optic red/green
- Foregrip/falshlight/green laser/navigation light

She now looks like:

It took a little bit of gunsmithing to move the fire control group and tune the extended mag release to accomodate all the different mags (mostling drilling, grinding and filing). The fire control group was a drop in pretty much once the old group and plate was removed.

 

[John A.]

Very awesome.

I still pronounce it sega though. LOL

 

[LAZY EYED SNIPER]

Nice work...

 

[Dysfunctional]

I fired some Silver Bear slugs and Federal #4 buckshot and it is 8"-12" low @ ~25 yards but nicely centered using the optic just set on the rail straight out of the box. Windage is good but elevation needs adjusting. The quad rail handgrip has some room for these adjustments. The front mount and rear tang can be shimmed by placing a washer or two on the screws. The washers came with the rail and this is an accepted practice on this particular part because it can be used on the .12, .20 & .410 gauge shotguns. These washers will sit out of sight between the barrel and grip. I will do that to get the dot closer to center on the target before adjusting the optic. The idea here is to lower the front of the rail, which is integral to the grip, and raise the rear slightly. This will put the zeroed optic straight inline with the bore axis (or pretty close) without having to overly compensate through maximum optic adjustments.

:arrow: TIP! One thing to note on any build is if you will need to fit/re-fit and/or test/re-test any parts, do not apply your thread locker until after you are done making your adjustments if at all possible. Otherwise, you'll be cleaning a lot of threads. Or, if you use Red or Green, you may not be making those adjustments at all if you can't apply heat to break the seal. Blue and Purple thread locker are intended for parts that may need to be removed and will likely be your most commonly used thread lockers in gunsmithing. Use this guide to help in your selection http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data ... _Guide.pdf. Also see MidwayUSA as a potential source of supply http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearc ... readlocker.

I use Red for items that I will not remove but could apply heat to if absolutely necessary (no plastic parts nearby). I used it on the extended mag release screw, trigger guard, muzzle brake and stock mount block. I will use it on the quad rail foregrip when I am done adjusting it. I use Blue for items that I might need to remove and replace very infrequently. I used it on the Tango Down PR-4 sling mount, SAW grip screw/nut and Noveske K-9's. I use Purple on items that will regulary be removed during maintenance such as when I clean the gun. On this particular gun I haven't used any as it can field stripped for cleaning without any tools or the need to remove anything that has been mounted (in its' current configuration).