Scope rings
- Thread starter NY74
- Start date
How's your cheek weld and scope alignment
Should be able to cheek your rifle eyes closed, open your eyes and you should be able to see out of the scope perfectly.
Should be able to cheek your rifle eyes closed, open your eyes and you should be able to see out of the scope perfectly.
Saw this on Remington Owners. http://www.remingtonowners.com/post11729.html#p11729
Anyone using a ring lapping kit? I never have but will order one for a new scope coming in later this year.
Another question: how many use a torque wrench to tighten the ring screws? If not, how do you know each and every screw to tightened the same amount (especially the 6-screw types like Blackhawk)?
Anyone using a ring lapping kit? I never have but will order one for a new scope coming in later this year.
Another question: how many use a torque wrench to tighten the ring screws? If not, how do you know each and every screw to tightened the same amount (especially the 6-screw types like Blackhawk)?
Now that i'm getting serious about my accuracy, I'm taking things like this into consideration more .Ive just been tightening my rings by feel, but i do have a screwdriver type torqu wrencc ordered, which i will use when mounting optics from here out. As far as lapping the rings, i don't think i'm to that point of precision yet, also a GOOD set of rings should be pretty true.
I like to get the scope as low to the barrel as I can. Whatever rings accomplish that are what I use.
I have not used a lapping kit but have been thinking about trying it. I oft have rings that don;'t line up perfectly and I know that that causes torque on the scope and can cause issues, esp over time.
I also do not use a torque wrench. I will tighten it down like I do lug nuts on a car. I will snug them all up and then work my way around tightening a little on each til they are all tight. Combined with a little lock tight and I have not had any issues so far. I like to shoot rifles but I an not a precision bench-rest shooter so my method has been good for me so far. I shoot for fun, food and self defense. If I was going for MOA accuracy at long range i would definitely be taking a more precise approach to how I do things.
I have not used a lapping kit but have been thinking about trying it. I oft have rings that don;'t line up perfectly and I know that that causes torque on the scope and can cause issues, esp over time.
I also do not use a torque wrench. I will tighten it down like I do lug nuts on a car. I will snug them all up and then work my way around tightening a little on each til they are all tight. Combined with a little lock tight and I have not had any issues so far. I like to shoot rifles but I an not a precision bench-rest shooter so my method has been good for me so far. I shoot for fun, food and self defense. If I was going for MOA accuracy at long range i would definitely be taking a more precise approach to how I do things.
Good article in G&A.
http://www.gunsandammo.com/shoot101...utm_term=gunsandammo&utm_content=enlfeatured1
http://www.gunsandammo.com/shoot101...utm_term=gunsandammo&utm_content=enlfeatured1
Have tried the lapping kits, had "ok" luck, though I wouldn't say it made a HELL of a difference. They are perty labor intensive though. I have recently gone to using the Burris Signature rings with the plastic inserts and as far as I'm concerned it's the only way to go. the last 3 scopes I've mounted have zeroed in less than than 10 rnds and that's firin 3 rnd groups. Course I bore sight em first, but even then I haven't had to adjust much after the bore sight. I like em and would recommend them to anyone. It would have been the last 4 scopes I've mounted, but I got an old Savage model 99 that had crooked mounting holes or somthin, had to zero it with the offset inserts in order to keep it on the paper. But that saved losing all the scope adjustment just to get it zeroed. I still think the Burris Signature system is the best thing goin.
Terry Mayes
.22LR
You could go that route, as a lapping kit will correct for any bias encountered while tightening the rings down. If you want an economy method, get a 10" section of 1" diameter steel rod stock. Metal suppliers sell by the inch/foot, and shipping will cost about as much as the rod.
You simply mount the bar in the rings, and snug the ring screws. Place the rings in the bases, and alternately tighten the ring screws and the screws holding the rings to the bases. I worked with a gunsmith many years, (decades), ago, that used the technique on the Leupold and Redfield bases and rings that twisted into the base.
Usually, with a quality set of rings, steel, the effort is not needed.
You can also pick up a torque tool that measures in inch/lbs, if you have a tendency to over-tighten things. I use a small screw driver with interchangeable bits, it limits the amount of force I can apply. By alternating between the screws, (like mounting a tire), you simply tighten each screw until there's no more "slack". You don't need to strain any muscles to keep a scope from moving, and the average guy can damage the scope by using too much force. More isn't always better.