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What are those bulk skeet shells good for?

Like you said nice novelty if they don't cycle well.
Work good in a side by side.;)

I'd really be interested to see if they'd be reliably cycled in something like a Kel-Tec KSG or that UTAS-15 monstrosity.

Theoretically one could come pretty close to a 30 round capacity with a 1.25" shell in either of those.

Hopefully they can be made to reliably cycled through a 500 or 870 action.

I could see them finding a niche role with something like the capacity-limited Serbu Super Shorty.

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Just for the record. I have read about people fine tuning their guns to cycle the real short shells without a problem. Exactly what they did I don't know.
I guess it's hit and miss. I know my 500A cycles the shorter LEE reloads with no problem.
 
NEVER on live ammo... The RP-12 wad fresh out of the bag. like Jackal is up to with his exacto. but cut the wad off below the cup, and substitute with the cup that was holding the shot.


Keep us posted on how they work out for you.
 
Guys, I have about 800 lbs of lead that I wanna turn into slugs. Most of it is pure lead and really soft. But some of it is harder (zinc added, maybe). You can still shave off piece of the hardened lead with knife. Couple questions I have:

1. Is the hardened lead good for slugs? I still think it may deform some leaving the muzzle, but I'm not sure.
2. If the hardened lead is too hard for slugs, can I cut with pure lead to make it acceptable for slug molding? For example, add 2 pounds of pure lead to every pound of hardened lead?
3. I have to get the lead in ingots-sized pieces before I can use them. Most of my lead is in 20-50 lbs blocks or sections. What's the best way to melt that amount of lead?

And how can I know for sure what is in the hardened lead? Pay attention to the temp at which it melts?

Thanks in advance.
 
Adding other elements makes the slugs harder, which in turn decreases deformation.

I can't really answer your question as to whether it would be "too hard" or not. Especially not without knowing exactly what is in it and what percentage.

Can pure lead cut or to "dilute" lead with other elements...sure it can. But the hard part is determining how much, and to which I won't be able to help you much with because that's above most of my experience doing so.

Many people who shoot rifle and pistol bullets prefer to add tin and such to pure lead to make their bullets harder for various reason and is generally somewhat desired for that.

But like I said, without knowing really what's in it and how much is in it, could be anyones' guess.

As for melting bulk amounts of lead blocks, a propane torch reduces melt time considerably.
 
800 lbs,,,,that's a lot of lead. Any idea whee it came from and what it was used for? (maybe help ID the mix)
 
Ok, did a composite chemical analysis at work (some friends of mine work in the metallurgy shop) and ran the soft lead. As suspected, it was pure. The harder stuff was antimony, tin and NO zinc. I am a happy camper now. And it came out closer to 1,000 pounds of lead. We use them at work to check straps, brackets, load cells, and braces. I just collect the broken pieces over time. We got 1900lb solid blocks we use everyday.
 
I saw that one.

Would love to sit behind it for a few minutes, but I'd hate to be the one paying for ammo... :eek:
 
I actually have a friend who made (from the ground up) a 12 gauge gatling gun based on the old civil war gatlings. brass and steel and all. It was truly a work of art. I'll see if I can't find a few pics later. But it was really beautiful.
 
OK, here's the link to the original topic. It literally blows away anything that was on the red jacket show. For anyone who thinks they're a bad ass for putting an AR together, look away now.

http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?50993-Building-a-Gatling-gun.&highlight=jj gatling gun

And here's a few pics (not all), but the topic was definately one for the books.

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I do believe that's the baddest DYI project known in existence. I think I'll just put my bird feeder away.
 
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