Best finish that is less $

[boomer92266]

I have a Maverick 88 and will be using it for deer hunting this year, my camo rifle had to be sold to pay some bills and fix the car. I have searched but decided to ask those that have done it, what is the best finish for the money to put on a shotgun? I can't afford a custom job so I will be doing it myself, just want something that will be resistant to oil that I will use on the moving parts course and will last for a while. The gun is my home defense, rabbit and now deer gun. Thanks for any help

 

[Larry23433]

I'm sure others have fancier methods, but as far as inexpensive goes it's really hard to beat a rattle can job. If you take the time to do all the prep work, use the proper primer, and use quality paint it'll hold up to alot of abuse.

I use Rust-Oleum 2x automotive grade spray paint which is usually available at any auto parts store, and they sell it in camo colors if that's your thing. I just use ultra matte black because it mimics a factory parkerized finish really well.

Disassemble and clean the gun like crazy with alcohol or similar to remove all oil. When your done, clean it again! If you're starting from a blued finish like on the maverick 88, use a self etching primer first. Then do 3 or more light coats of your color finish, then finish with a matte clear coat if you want some extra protection (I don't use clear because it makes touch ups more difficult), and then let it dry and cure for several days before re assembly. I cure mine in a heat box I made from from an old metal dome lamp and a cardboard box wrapped in tin foil lol. Curing it at 100-120 degrees speeds things up and makes the finish look smoother but is in no way necessary. Otherwise just try to paint on a day that's warm and not humid.

This is how I paint my shotguns. The automotive grade paint holds up fine to CLP type gun oils and to bore cleaners. It's not the toughest option when it comes to scratches, but it can be touched up so easily that it barely matters. But most of all it only costs about 8 bucks a can and a single can will do 2-3 guns. So for paint and primer your under $20.

 

[nitesite]

Good write-up @apexkeeper

 

[Ernst]

Apexkeeper is right on regarding the process.

Both Krylon and Rust-Oleum sell several shades of camo rattle can paint. Both work well if you do the prep work right. And very easy to touch up any scratches or wear marks down the road. Some will use clear coat, which tends to make the finish shiny, and others will just use paint. If you don't have a heat source simply hang the parts and the they will cure out in 2-3 days. Plus if you don't like the pattern take a piece of scotch brite a rough up the surface and repaint. You can also use scotch brite to "blend" in the paint patterns and put wear marks in the finish.

Just make sure you don't paint any of the internal parts.

You can use, for example, a green color base coat, then take vegetation and lay over that base and over spray with other colors to create a woods like camo pattern if you like. Use you imagination to replicate the environment you live in. And down the road if you change your mind simply respray.

Regards

 

[Rodburner]

Not gun related, but I’ve used my old aluminum truck box to heat, dry and cure countless bits of metal and fiberglass over the last 20 years. When I still had the truck, I could cure fiberglass motorcycle project parts in the box, right on the truck, to keep the stink away from the house and wife..lol. Just drop this little heater in at one end and it could reach finger burning temps in a few minutes. And those dumb things are everywhere….

 

[Larry23433]

Apexkeeper is right on regarding the process.

Both Krylon and Rust-Oleum sell several shades of camo rattle can paint. Both work well if you do the prep work right. And very easy to touch up any scratches or wear marks down the road. Some will use clear coat, which tends to make the finish shiny, and others will just use paint. If you don't have a heat source simply hang the parts and the they will cure out in 2-3 days. Plus if you don't like the pattern take a piece of scotch brite a rough up the surface and repaint. You can also use scotch brite to "blend" in the paint patterns and put wear marks in the finish.

Just make sure you don't paint any of the internal parts.

You can use, for example, a green color base coat, then take vegetation and lay over that base and over spray with other colors to create a woods like camo pattern if you like. Use you imagination to replicate the environment you live in. And down the road if you change your mind simply respray.

Regards

I don't know about other brands but I know Rust-Oleum has a ultra matte clear coat that doesn't add any shine. I'll use clear coat on guns that are basically going to be wall hangers or safe queens because it does make the finish look a tad better. Sounds counter intuitive but for my guns that actually see alot of use I don't like clear. At the end of the season if I wanna fix any scratches I can just hit them with a quick touch up coat of color. If they have clear coat on them you basically have to recoat both the color and clear to have the paint match.

Also, Another step I forgot about is after the paint has cured for at least 3 days I take all the painted parts and wash them in warm water, and take a sponge with a little dish soap and rub down the parts for a while. Essentially I'm very lightly wet sanding for 2 reasons. A. Ultra flat/matte paints tend to have a "dusty" finish. This smooths that out and B. It's just enough to blend in any imperfections to give a smoother appearance. When your done, dry everything and give any bare metal surfaces that got wet a light coat of your favorite oil.

Not gun related, but I’ve used my old aluminum truck box to heat, dry and cure countless bits of metal and fiberglass over the last 20 years. When I still had the truck, I could cure fiberglass motorcycle project parts in the box, right on the truck, to keep the stink away from the house and wife..lol. Just drop this little heater in at one end and it could reach finger burning temps in a few minutes. And those dumb things are everywhere….View attachment 29776

How dare you try to upstage my cardboard box with a lightbulb in it!

 

[Rodburner]

Lol, I’ve gotten WAY more use out of that box since I sold the truck, than I ever did when it was mounted. It doesn’t leak, it still locks and makes a handy if not level work table. I store all my power tools inside it these days…and my eazy bake oven days are long gone..

 

[boomer92266]

Thanks everyone, I just got done cleaning my gun after shooting and found light rust on the takedown bolt for the barrel. I am such a rust phobic that I clean after every shooting or once a week when I don't shoot. But it seems like the rust bug finds me no matter how much I clean. I even use a dehumidifier in the small closet where I have my safe. I just don't understand the bluing on guns today, I have owned guns for 40 years and back when I was young never had one to rust as fast as my Maverick 88 today. I have even seen unboxing of 88's and other low cost guns on YouTube that had rust right out of the box. I guess even on a fixed income I am gonna have to save for something with a better finish. Thanks again.