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Cutting a picatinny rail into an MC2 subcompact frame?

I have a MantisX that mounts onto a picatinny rail. I also have both the MC2compact and the MC2subcompact. The compact has a picatinny rail. The subcompact does not, but when looking at the frames of both, it looks like by using a dremel with a correct bit, the frame could be carefully cut on the subcompact to make a picatinny rail. Question: Has anyone ever tried doing this? Any opinions on this subject? Does anyone think it's DOABLE? thanks
 

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Other than mucking up the serial # plate it looks doable, provided the polymer thickness is the same on both...which I would assume it is.

Edit: However not doing it, is perhaps an excuse to buy another gun...jus' sayin'LOL
 
Question: Has anyone ever tried doing this? Any opinions on this subject? Does anyone think it's DOABLE? thanks
I don't have a MantisX to refer to but it would appear there is a "cross-bolt" that helps retain it to the dust cover/rail area. This is an essential piece no doubt, as along with the rail cross cut, it helps keep the Mantis from falling off during recoil.

As to grinding/cutting a slot in the rail, that is certainly doable but like Cal mentioned, you risk damaging the serial number plate. THAT could make the gun unsalable down the road.

Structurally, the dust cover is just that--it doesn't stiffen the gun all that much so any cuts will only affect it aesthetically for the most part. How far does the cross-bolt stick down and how deep would the slot have to be?
 
Wonder if you could go in a totally different mounting diection by using 3M industrial strength backed Velcro?

We've used this 3M product with great success for mounting various things to all types of weapons and as long as you let it "cure" for a couple of days it's solid. But in case you ever need to remove it you can use a heat gun.

I'm not familiar with a MantisX? Isn't that some sort of training device?

Regards
 
Success! I used a triangle file to start, then carefully used a dremel to get rid of the big stuff, followed by filing and finished it off with sandpaper. For the slot on the bottom, I placed a piece of electrical tape for a guide, and used a file to cut the channel where the MantisX locks onto the frame. The channel was 1/4” wide and I used a file for cutting. You can see by the photos the locking channel cut in the MC2c is in the frame, but the channel I had to cut into the MC2sc goes as low as the metal label. I’ve included photos showing both pistols inside the frame and you can see what I’m talking about. I also took a photo of both firing pins and they are the same length for the MC2c and MC2sc, which I thought was interesting. My MantisX training device fits snugly on the rail of the frame with the locking device on the MantisX adhering to the filing I did on the bottom of the frame. Last photo is the MantisX on the slide.
 

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Good job! Glad it worked for you!
 
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