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First attempt at 5.7x28mm. . .

FML!

75% success rate so far...

I bought a RCBS FL 2 die set over the weekend, I couldn't pass up the price, $20.00! So today on lunch I went and picked up some 40gr. V-Max bullets, so I thought I would see about setting up the dies and resizing them, first case, stuck in the die, I get it out and use more lube, neck, everywhere I can, I get through 4 more then another stuck case

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So out of the 20 I tried, I got 15 usable pieces.

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Since that was going so well, I thought I would see about setting the seater die, here is an AE 40gr. Factory round next to my non primed/powdered 40gr. V-Max round, I need to check the OAL, my danged electric gauge needs batteries.

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I thought I read that I needed small pistol primers, which I bought, but it needs small rifle primers, oh well, I could always use more primers ;)
I will revisit this once I do a bit more reading, I also relubed the pad and I'm letting that soak in.

It seems the rebated rim is so small and there is a little play in the shell holder that may be causing all the issues, the cases aren't stuck too bad, it's more that the rim is fragile and small...

My intentions are to reload this with ~5.5 grains of Longshot.

Someone on the FiveseveN forum ran a bunch of different loads, this one seemed to work well, while not his favorite, it did better than others.

40 Grain Hornady Vmax + Hodgdon Long-shot

40 Gr Vmax
Longshot
5.5 Grs

FPS - 1878

Sample Size 4
Stand. Dev. 13
Ft Lbs Energy 313

Notes: Standard Function
 
What are you lubing with? Ive seen Imperial Sizing Wax recommended for necking down cases like this. Ive never tried anything like this though so i cant give personal opinion.
 
they are supposed to be the king of pain in the ass cartridges .....and I understand that they usually don't reload twice.
 
That case is a booger, because it is a true straight wall which is very unusual in an autoloading firearm..

And the case also has a thin plastic coating on it to aid in feeding and extracting that straight wall case. Many reloaders unknowingly remove the plastic coating when they clean or tumble their fired brass prior to reloading it.
 
Thanks all.
I'm using an ancient gel and pad lube from RCBS, it worked on all my other necked cases I have reloaded, it has been suggested I use some sort of wax by a couple people.
I had read about not tumbling the brass, so I haven't done that, thankfully.
I will post up more if I have any more success.
Thank again!
 
are you going to be able to load them with anything special, stuff factories aren't doing or anything like that ?
 
are you going to be able to load them with anything special, stuff factories aren't doing or anything like that ?

It's hard to say, at the moment, I'm planning on something similar to factory, until, if and when I get the hang of it, then I could look into subsonic rounds, my plans are to go through the process to SBR and a can for my PS90, but that is down the road, later this year.
In reality, if/when it all comes together, it would cost about $0.19 a round +/-
Reading more and more, it does sound like it's hard pressed to reload more than once, but that's half the fun, right?
 
119 of these little lovelies

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I started out with 120, but I got one case stuck in the die trying to get the primer to drop a second time, oh well, it's better than the 75% success I had before.
Basically...

Once fired case
40gr. Hornady v-max
5.2gr. Longshot
Federal 205 small rifle primers

5.7x28, .223, 30.06
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Now to find some time to see how they work!
 
Thanks guys!
I decided to see how it would go, having sat on them so long, it was time to revisit them.
I ordered a Redding case holder and it was a much better fit than the RCBS, once I got them all deprimed, I chamfered the primer pocket to remove the crimp as well as the throat, as well as having boat tail, everything went together very well.
 
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