• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

Got a new 590a1

M

masterskop

Copper BB
Hi,

I'm a total newbie when it comes to shotguns. I'm generally an ar15 man. But this year I took the plunge and got a Mossy 590a1 20".

First question: Breaking in the 590a1. Is it ok to rack the pump a 1000+ times with lube ofc in order to slick'n up the pump? I've used a mix of mobil 1 5w30, mmo and a atf to work it. Got a tired arm from it. However, I have not shot it yet. I have used snap caps and they loaded and ejected just fine.

Second question: so, dry firing the 590a1 is ok? I have read many postings all over the net about dry firing a shotgun. either it's ok to do so or not. I did dry fire it a couple of time to cycle the action. It was way stiffer to cycle after dry firing than to just depressing the slide release. I guess the bolt lug needs to be worn down a bit? <-- possible 3rd question.

Any suggestions/info on maintaining a mossy and/or things to look if problems arise with the action of the shotgun is much appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum from NY and congrats on your new 590A1.

Nothing wrong with racking it 1,000 times.

I was taught NOT to dry firer a gun. You will hear plenty from each side on that.

Give it a real good cleaning before you shoot it.



Mossberg Serial Numbers
 
Shoot it.

As for one thing to know, sometimes, light skeet loads may not unlock the action after firing so you would have to press the button to release the slide anyway.

Full power loads tend to unlock the action on mine without having to press the button making cycling easy and straightforward.

Just something you may would want to know.
 
Welcome!

1- rack the $#!+ out of it, you're Mobil Mix sounds like good stuff!

2- like old mossy, I have also been taught not to dry fire, but I don't think pulling the trigger with snap caps would be an issue at all.

What model did you pick up?
Best of luck and welcome once again!
 
Welcome to the Mossberg Owners Forum !!

The Black Water edition of the 590A1 is a great shotgun...

I also own a 590A1 ( model #51663)



Model number: #51663
Gauge: 12
Chamber: 3"
Barrel: cylinder bore
Magazine capacity: 8 (+1 in chamber)
Barrel length: 20"
Sights: ghost ring
Chokes: cylinder
Overall length: 41"
LOP (lenth of pull): 13 7/8"
Finish: parkerized
Stock: synthetic
Weight: 7 1/4 pounds
 
Shooter13,

I have a few more questions on types of shotgun shells that can be used. I'll be going to the range soon. So, my brother gave me two types of shells to practice with:
1. Sellier and Bellot 12 ga. tactical shotshells 2 1/2" 1 oz slug (low recoil)
2. Royal Buck 2 3/4" 00 buck (9 pellets)
Would these be good shells to start with or something else?

As these shells can be used for self defense. This shotgun does have a spring retaining clip at the mag tube cap end. Is it wise to remove this clip? I know that there are many different types of 2.75 shotshells. I've heard some owners only getting 7 shells in the tube instead of 8.

And, what shells types would be good for what game types? IE 2 3/4 slug vs deer....

thanks
 
I started off with several boxes of cheap, low brass bird shot. It may be a better/cheaper way to get acclimated to your shotgun than the slugs or 00 buck. Of course if you can shoot water jugs where you go, a couple of jugs and some of the ammo you mentioned would be an enjoyable way to finish your time at the range. Welcome, enjoy and keep us posted!
 
masterskop said:
Shooter13,

I have a few more questions on types of shotgun shells that can be used. I'll be going to the range soon. So, my brother gave me two types of shells to practice with:

1. Sellier and Bellot 12 ga. tactical shotshells 2 1/2" 1 oz slug (low recoil)
2. Royal Buck 2 3/4" 00 buck (9 pellets)

Would these be good shells to start with or something else?

As these shells can be used for self defense. This shotgun does have a spring retaining clip at the mag tube cap end. Is it wise to remove this clip? I know that there are many different types of 2.75 shotshells. I've heard some owners only getting 7 shells in the tube instead of 8.

And, what shells types would be good for what game types? IE 2 3/4 slug vs deer....thanks
Click to expand...


Both the rounds mentioned above would be good for practice...and self defense...with the slugs also being good for deer hunting.

As carbinemike and old mossy have added...bird shot is good for fowl hunting...for patterning your shotgun...and for practice.

==============================================

How to Pattern a Shotgun
By Chuck Hawks

Shotgun patterns are measured at 40 yards for all gauges, except .410 bore. .410's are patterned at 30 yards. Patterning is a simple process, but time consuming due to all the counting required. Here is the correct way to pattern a shotgun.
  1. Set a big piece of blank paper on a frame 40 yards from the muzzle. (Butcher's paper cut into 48" squares works well.)
  2. Shoot at the center of the paper.
  3. Draw a 30" diameter circle around the center of the resulting pattern, so that it encloses the greatest number of holes.
  4. Count the pellet holes in the circle. (It helps to mark the holes with a magic marker as you count them, so you don't lose your place.)
  5. Cut open an identical, unfired shell and count the pellets in the shell. (The actual number of pellets may vary from the theoretical number based on shot size and weight, so it is best to count them.)
  6. Calculate the percentage of pellets that hit in the 30" circle. (Divide the number of holes by the number of shot in the unfired shell.)
That is it; you have now officially patterned your shotgun. Of course, every shot varies, so ideally you should repeat the process 10 times and average the results. (Analogous to shooting a group with a rifle, rather than just one shot.) Your shotgun's pattern percentage will vary if you change the shot size, the amount of shot in the shell or the hardness of the shot, so you need to pattern all the loads you actually shoot in a given gun.

Pattern percentages will usually (but not always!) go up if you increase the hardness of the shot, decrease the weight of the shot charge, buffer the shot inside the shell, or decrease the muzzle velocity of the shot charge. Pattern percentages will typically do down if you use softer shot, increase the weight of the shot charge or increase the muzzle velocity of the load. These generalizations primarily apply to traditional lead shot, your gun may vary.

The percentage of pellet strikes that constitutes what choke varies, depending on the source. Jack O'Connor gave these percentages in his Shotgun Book, which are typical:
  • Full Choke: 70% or higher
  • Improved Modified: 65%
  • Modified: 55-60%
  • Skeet No. 2: 55-60%
  • Quarter Choke: 50%
  • Improved Cylinder: 45%
  • Skeet No. 1: 35-40%
  • Cylinder: 35-40%
===============================================
 
masterskop said:
Hi,

I'm a total newbie when it comes to shotguns. I'm generally an ar15 man. But this year I took the plunge and got a Mossy 590a1 20".

First question: Breaking in the 590a1. Is it ok to rack the pump a 1000+ times with lube ofc in order to slick'n up the pump? I've used a mix of mobil 1 5w30, mmo and a atf to work it. Got a tired arm from it. However, I have not shot it yet. I have used snap caps and they loaded and ejected just fine.

Second question: so, dry firing the 590a1 is ok? I have read many postings all over the net about dry firing a shotgun. either it's ok to do so or not. I did dry fire it a couple of time to cycle the action. It was way stiffer to cycle after dry firing than to just depressing the slide release. I guess the bolt lug needs to be worn down a bit? <-- possible 3rd question.

Any suggestions/info on maintaining a mossy and/or things to look if problems arise with the action of the shotgun is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If I can get firing pins...

I'd dry fire the crap out of it. I think you need to work the entire mechanism to "smooth it in", not just the slide.

Every gun I own was dry fired probably 1000 times or more before it was ever loaded. Except the rimfires.

I have a S&W 342PD Airlight that was dry fired over 1000 times, detail stripped, Jerry Miculek "style" trigger job and spring kit done before it was ever shot. It's accurate, smooth and the trigger is great, not one issue.

Or you can buy a bunch of bird loads.

Are there a ton of pix out there showing the shear devastation that dry firing is wreaking havoc on the poor Mossies, or any other center fire?
 
Lots of good info!

I dry fire mine, center fire ok, rim fire bad.

For break in for both the gun and yourself, bird and target loads, value packs makes it less expensive and = more range time. The gun is designed for buckshot and slugs and Winchester is among the least expensive off the store shelf. (Winchester isn't what I trust my life to) patterning is important, what ever load you choose needs to be patterned and at self defense/home defense ranges there will honestly be little difference in patter or as NiteSite has said in the past, buckshot almost becomes precision munitions. I'm getting a little ahead of myself as this is about break in.

The full power loads will aid in break in much quicker. My 20" seemed rough for some time until after a few hundred rounds but I slicked up well enough. If you're feeling adventurous, load some 3" magnum loads.
 
stigmata said:
Magnum loads are f'n awesome. Love the kick. But, can only handle so many in one outing.

Best advice.....shoot the hell out of it, you will not be dissapointed.
Click to expand...
Mag loads are like getting punched in the shoulder. That's it in a sentence...."....shoot the hell out of it....." Dry fired my 30 year old 500A thousands of times and literally thousands of smoking shells have flown out of the ejection port. Can't imagine how many 590s I could buy if I had the money for all the 12ga rounds that have been launched from my old 500A in the last 30 years. The 500A has not required any repair or parts replacements in all those years and rounds going down the barrel. Maybe my great grand-children or their grandchildren can trade my 500A in for a 590 in a 100 years or so. Man, I'd love a 590, but another shotgun would be redundant with 3 in the safe. That's the problem with the old Mossbergs, they never die.
 
As said dry firing is fine.
Rimfires are the guns that have issues with that.
Anything in the 500 family should last longer than any of us.
If you do have any issues with anything it will probably be related to cheap ammo.
We here at MO can help you work through any issue that might occur. If there is any.
Go shoot it and have fun.
Dont forget to put some bird shot on some flying clays. Besides bringing home dinner with your gun, it's the most fun you can have with a shotgun.
 
To masterkop..Congrats on your 590a1..wish you can join me next week on my bushpig hunt here.. they are running free and I've got them on bait we both could have fun with our new mossys .ticking them of with slugs ..just got my licence today after a waiting period of 4 long months..greetings South Africa

Sent from my X1010 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top