Mounting suppressor for 640 ka Chuckster
- Thread starter JnyQst
- Start date
The 22 magnum will still sound like an unsuppressed 22LR due to being supersonic, so when the bullet breaks the speed of sound somewhere downrange, will still crack nonetheless and won't be a significant improvement in sound reduction for that caliber.
But 1/2-28 are standard threads for .22 suppressors.
But 1/2-28 are standard threads for .22 suppressors.
^ This.
You'll go through the trouble and expense of threading, buying a can, paying the tax stamp, and waiting six months only to still need ear protection when you fire the rifle...
You'll go through the trouble and expense of threading, buying a can, paying the tax stamp, and waiting six months only to still need ear protection when you fire the rifle...
Gotcha.
Doesn't necessarily have to be a gunsmith. The upper I bought for my wife's dedicated .22lr rifle did not come threaded so I took the barrel to a local machine shop. The tech threw it on a lathe and spun out the 1/2-28 threads in no time. The job turned out great and my .22 can fits like a glove...
Doesn't necessarily have to be a gunsmith. The upper I bought for my wife's dedicated .22lr rifle did not come threaded so I took the barrel to a local machine shop. The tech threw it on a lathe and spun out the 1/2-28 threads in no time. The job turned out great and my .22 can fits like a glove...
To answer your questions about how silencers go onto barrels, yes, they screw onto threads on the end of the barrel.
Some 5.56 suppressors are considered quick detachable which clamp over a flash hider, but you'll still have to thread the barrel so the flash hider will go onto it.
Not many ways around it. I suppose that it's possible to do it in other ways like how a gas block is held in place with taper pins, but I would have to ask: "why?"
Some 5.56 suppressors are considered quick detachable which clamp over a flash hider, but you'll still have to thread the barrel so the flash hider will go onto it.
Not many ways around it. I suppose that it's possible to do it in other ways like how a gas block is held in place with taper pins, but I would have to ask: "why?"
I was looking around & saw that they have muzzle couplers. I basically was hoping maybe there was a easy & inexpensive, still safe, way to add a suppressor to my non-threaded rifle barrels. I am referring to my .22's. Higher caliber I would definitely go the threaded barrel route. For plinking & varmint control I was hoping too try & keep it as inexpensive as possible.
Greatly appreciate the info your giving. Very new to the suppressor world & still learning about firearms in generally. I was an Army Reservist but in a MASH unit. So my experience with firearms was very limited. Always wanted to buy an AR-15 once I experienced the M-16 but never got around to it. Trying to make up for that now.
Again, thanks. Anything knowledge you can pass along is greatly appreciated.
JQ
Greatly appreciate the info your giving. Very new to the suppressor world & still learning about firearms in generally. I was an Army Reservist but in a MASH unit. So my experience with firearms was very limited. Always wanted to buy an AR-15 once I experienced the M-16 but never got around to it. Trying to make up for that now.
Again, thanks. Anything knowledge you can pass along is greatly appreciated.
JQ
Thank you for your service.
Threaded is the universal standard.
The biggest problem with the way you describe is the bore of the gun and bore of the suppressor would very likely be misaligned with each other, which would cause the bullet to strike the suppressor internal baffles when you fire it, turning into a mini frag and thus seriously damaging or destroying the can.
Threaded is the universal standard.
The biggest problem with the way you describe is the bore of the gun and bore of the suppressor would very likely be misaligned with each other, which would cause the bullet to strike the suppressor internal baffles when you fire it, turning into a mini frag and thus seriously damaging or destroying the can.