• Mossberg Owners is in the process of upgrading the software. Please bear with us while we transition to the new look and new upgraded software.

Painting a wood stock...

COFirefighter

COFirefighter

.410
After reading DaveCT's thread, I was inspired to paint my wood stock a simple, no-nonsense black or maybe flat-earth. Any suggestions on how to properly prep and paint the wood? Dave used Rustoleum, and we have a thread on here somewhere titled "Duracoat" that says it'll work on wood as well, but there was no elaboration on wood and Duracoat projects.

Suggestions? I'm by no means an expert on wood products, much more a nuts and bolts kind of guy...
 
There's other ways to get it done, but this way i think is your best bet being a n00b to "woodworkin".

If it has any paint or stain on it you need to sand it. Use 150 grit then 220 grit. You want to take the shine off. Making it dull. Then prime it. And then use 0000 steel wool to smooth it out. ( very lightly!) Careful not to sand the prime off. Also when you do spray make sure its an area that's dust free. Use the same brand paint and primer and clear coat. or else it will crackle...(i found out the hard way.)
Don't over spray it. Paint with nice smooth flowing action. If you want to test your hand on a scrap piece of wood to get the flow right and to get the right distance you need to be away from the material.
Spray paint a coat then let it dry hard. Use the steel wool again to smooth it and get rid of the dust that you will most likely have. Then repeat 2 pr 3 times. Then use the clear. Same process with the steel wool. Clear coat it 3 or 4 times to make a good coat. Then you're done.

And pix are required. ;)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CReRbqCBj7I&feature=related[/youtube]

^^^ The first 6 minutes of this video shows you how to go about sanding it...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


If you want to spray it in camo...then this is a good video...he uses actual leaves and stick and brush. it came out great too...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3q9YYy3O3m8[/youtube]

and if you are doing it this way..don't worry about dust. :oops:
 
I def didnt go to any length to prep Allisons gun before painting, though we sanded with a "medium" grit 3M sanding sponge and then some extra fine steel wool.

I was just tryin to knock down the shine of the finish on the wood... We painted it. And its wearing off in a couple areas.

Moral of the story.
Spend more time in prep than I did.

Good advice RipJack on finishing!
 
When I paint any gun being wood or plastic the prep is most important but not too arduous.

With my wood 500 I started by sanding the satin finish on the spots to be painted with 220 grit paper and stepped down to 320 grit but I left the satin finish there as a sealer being careful to not sand through to bare wood. then I applied about 4 coats of paint per direction on the can which with the textured black I used was a couple minutes between. Let it sit 24hrs before trying to do anything with it and longer if possible. The technique for spray painting is to make sure your can never gets closer than 12" and light even coats as to avoid drips. Once you have good results you'll be having fun with whatever you feel like painting. I've always worked with wood and refinishing and enjoy it.

Duracoat would be the best option though I've never used it. My Rustoleum was $4!!! :D
 
What color is the forearm? Are you painting it as well?
 
Ooooh yeah! I agree with the light even coats, and several of them if at all neccessary!

I think we did 4 total coats, between 2 directions. I once saw my brother in law try to paint a gun, fortunately it was just an airsoft gun. One coat. All at once. Totally sucked and it was sticky for days. Runs ALL OVER!!!

Another failure on my part, we didnt let the gun sit anylonger than it took for the gun to not be tacky and not smudge under our fingers. We actually had cleaned the gun while the paint was setting up, put it back together and went hunting!

No wonder its wearing off! :D
 
All good info so far, but one thing I didn't see mentioned was the top coat. It's not necessary, but if you want a good lasting finish, you need to invest in at least a decent clear coat. If you're using rattle can, then use the same mfg. and type of clear as the paint you use. If you use DuraCoat, stick with DuraClear. Otherwise, if you're going with a good airbrush paint you have a few more selections on what you can use. House of Kolor makes a pretty nice clear coat in every flavor (matte, satin and high or low gloss). Createx, and their various sub-brands, make some awesome airbrush paints. That's personally what I use for my RC cars and other projects. As with anything, you can go as complex or as simple as you want, but quality paints are going to make all the difference. You can still get a good job out of rattle can, just spend the extra dollar or two to get a decent paint. Just take your time and be sure to post up pictures of your finished project.

EDIT: My bad, I guess rip did mention the clear coat, but that guys shady anyways. :D
 
I have Duracoated a few wood and synthetic stocks. as per Laurel's instructions I sanded with 220 grit paper. it seems to work great!!!
 
Sounds good. When I get on my computer in the AM I'll look up this textured black paint I heard about......if you're into that.
 
Suitable for use on metal, wood, concrete and masonry
Dries in approximately 120 minutes
12 oz. can provides coverage for up to 15 sq. ft.
Black color in a textured, satin finish

1zyn0l.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053

The Home Depot - Boulder‎
1600 29th Street
Boulder, CO 80301
(303) 449-4221
 
I read this Thread yesterday and the linked thread on AR15.com.

Today I went to the DEPOT and bought these :eek:
HuntClub Green, Nutmeg, Black & Clear
IMAG003.jpg


Bubba my old Mossberg with the VERY old factory camo needed a facelift :lol:
IMAG001.jpg


A few hours later
IMAG006.jpg


IMAG007.jpg


The completed package :cool:

IMAG009a.jpg


IMAG0012-1.jpg


Complete with my new ETA safety (That I LOVE)

IMAG0011-1.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top