Red dot question
- Thread starter smithjr
- Start date
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
I don't know that I would trust it to handle shotgun recoil.
Only one way to find out.....lol
Only one way to find out.....lol
^^ For $30 bucks that's pretty much what you'll have to go with. I doubt it's designed to take repeated shock like that... BUT... if it doesn't work (and you bought it at Wallyworld) you can return it no questions asked 
It won't be the first and last time I suggest Primary Arms ... I've just had great luck with their products and they're still a good value for the $.
It won't be the first and last time I suggest Primary Arms ... I've just had great luck with their products and they're still a good value for the $.
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
I've got a TruGlo on mine. I picked it up from a pawn shop for $65 new. It says its made for shotguns and even has different reticles for slugs and shot. Its been holding up so far.
My next gun though-I'm going through Primary Arms. Those guys are awesome and have good products priced right.
My next gun though-I'm going through Primary Arms. Those guys are awesome and have good products priced right.
Attachments
ok i mean this is my first red dot sight and i pretty much got it for free after i sold my stock wood stock on my 500, i hope to shoot it this weekend and see how it holds, but i cant track down the receipt..ill have to find it before hand. im looking to get an ati heatshield with ghost rings on it to help try to get it all sighted in in the future. @jeremy how hard was it to paint urs? i want something other than the typical all black gun lol
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
The cost of rattle can. Lol
I have a special paint on mine that you can't get on the civilian market, but I've done rattle can in the past, and if you know how to airgun, cerakote is a good way to go. Of course, no good paintjob comes without good prepwork. I spent about 30 min prepping those parts.
I have a special paint on mine that you can't get on the civilian market, but I've done rattle can in the past, and if you know how to airgun, cerakote is a good way to go. Of course, no good paintjob comes without good prepwork. I spent about 30 min prepping those parts.
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
Break your gun completely down. Absolutely gut it as far as you can and keep your internal parts and hardware in a jar, or coffee can, or even a plastic bag.
Then, get all the old paint off. It may have oils absorbed into it that will affect your paint setting correctly. I used a wire wheel to clean off my parts. Some people use bead blasters.
Then, tape off all the internals of your housing. Mine is still factory black on the inside. Get every little hole. I used a coat hanger to hang my parts.
After that, if you're going with a gloss-job, you need to spray on a coat of primer. I prefer two, but that's just personal opinion. One good coat would probably work. Then, after its dry (the can says 5-15 min-I like to give it 45 min to an hour), lightly spray on your gloss. If you don't think you got a spot right-give it ample time to dry and then come back for that spot on the next sweep. I usually do 5 or 6 sweeps with time in between. Then let it dry for 24-36 hours before attempting to assemble the gun. I work very slow with gloss paints because its so easy to screw up.
If you're gonna go with flat paint instead, after you have the old paint off, you can get away with doing a coat of primer just to be safe, and then do three or four coats of flat. I like the way it looks better, and how much quicker it is. You only need about 15-20 min between sprays for your avg paint job. Then, after an hour of setting, its good to go.
The paint I used is thicker than your avg paint and you can still see the serial number just fine.
Then, get all the old paint off. It may have oils absorbed into it that will affect your paint setting correctly. I used a wire wheel to clean off my parts. Some people use bead blasters.
Then, tape off all the internals of your housing. Mine is still factory black on the inside. Get every little hole. I used a coat hanger to hang my parts.
After that, if you're going with a gloss-job, you need to spray on a coat of primer. I prefer two, but that's just personal opinion. One good coat would probably work. Then, after its dry (the can says 5-15 min-I like to give it 45 min to an hour), lightly spray on your gloss. If you don't think you got a spot right-give it ample time to dry and then come back for that spot on the next sweep. I usually do 5 or 6 sweeps with time in between. Then let it dry for 24-36 hours before attempting to assemble the gun. I work very slow with gloss paints because its so easy to screw up.
If you're gonna go with flat paint instead, after you have the old paint off, you can get away with doing a coat of primer just to be safe, and then do three or four coats of flat. I like the way it looks better, and how much quicker it is. You only need about 15-20 min between sprays for your avg paint job. Then, after an hour of setting, its good to go.
The paint I used is thicker than your avg paint and you can still see the serial number just fine.
gooffeyguy
.410
I don't know much about that cp tactical red/green dot, but I have the Tasco 42mm red/green dot that I purchased from Walmart for like $50 that has held up well. I've shot plenty of 1oz slugs and 00 buck and it still holds zero. After the first time shooting it I noticed the two thumb screws that tighten it to the rail loosened a bit, but some blue threadlocker solved that.
As far as painting, Duracoat makes a rattle can application now that includes a hardener inside (can-within-a-can) that mixes before you use it and it's good for something like 48hrs. It can be applied over existing bluing, parkerizing, anodizing, etc. and doesn't require heat to cure.
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_aerosol.html
As far as painting, Duracoat makes a rattle can application now that includes a hardener inside (can-within-a-can) that mixes before you use it and it's good for something like 48hrs. It can be applied over existing bluing, parkerizing, anodizing, etc. and doesn't require heat to cure.
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_aerosol.html
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
lol niiiice. There's good optics out there....I just wouldn't trust any walmart optics or lights on anything above a .22 . And be prepared to spend a minimum of $60 for a red dot-even that low is chancing it with a shotgun. I like using amazon and primary arms. I HIGHLY recommend you check them out. It seems like they have a good sale about every holiday, they have good products, and even if you don't buy now, you'll know what they have in the future.
im thinking about getting a rear iron sight/ghost ring for my top scope rail and get a replacement, easier to see bead for my 18.5 in barrel, then get a red dot in the future and have it set higher over the rear sight to use both if need be. has anyone put a rear sight on? or any suggestions? also the beads can be replaced right? sorry if these r noob questions lol
gooffeyguy
.410
My Tasco RedDot 42mm (actually it's both red and green dot) has held up and has held it's zero, even after shooting 10-15 rounds of 1oz slugs straight each range session. I've shot about a total of 30 slugs and 15-20 rounds of 00 buck with it on the gun with no problems. I bought it because on the package it said it was for rifles and shotguns and online it states "for shotguns that use up to 3-inch shells and handguns up to .357 magnum".
I also have a Nebo Protec Elite 190 light (about $30 from Walmart) mounted on a tri-rail in front of the forend. This is originally for a under barrel rail on a handgun but I threw it on my shotgun and figured at the least the plastic lens would fly off under the recoil of shooting but it has held up fine also. The only problem I have with this light is that I have it mounted on the bottom rail so the on/off slide switch is operated with my thumb and forefinger while holding the forend, and sometimes while the gun is in the soft case the light gets turned on and wears down the battery.
This is on a 20" barrel gun with a 7 round mag like what Shotgun Jeremy pictured earlier in this post.
I also have a Nebo Protec Elite 190 light (about $30 from Walmart) mounted on a tri-rail in front of the forend. This is originally for a under barrel rail on a handgun but I threw it on my shotgun and figured at the least the plastic lens would fly off under the recoil of shooting but it has held up fine also. The only problem I have with this light is that I have it mounted on the bottom rail so the on/off slide switch is operated with my thumb and forefinger while holding the forend, and sometimes while the gun is in the soft case the light gets turned on and wears down the battery.
This is on a 20" barrel gun with a 7 round mag like what Shotgun Jeremy pictured earlier in this post.
Shotgun Jeremy
.270 WIN
Those Nebo pistol lights are great! I just don't like the switch style. The Nebo rifle/shotgun light/laser combos.....well, I tore up two of them with less than 15 rounds of birdshot apiece.
Tasco seems to be getting better with their quality.
Tasco seems to be getting better with their quality.