wood furniture question??

[stigmata]

What is the best way (or is there one) to refinish butt stock and forend wood furniture?

I want to change the color finish on it and was curious if it was like any other wood and I could just go to home depot or something and get a color stain I like to refinish it in, after I sand it down of course. (what sanding grit # is best for this)
I know it may be difficult to get into the design pattern crevas' on it but the surface seems to be good to sand over. Finally do you have to seal it when complete or not.
The furniture on there now seems shiney like some sort of lacquer/sealant.

Any one done this to their wood furniture, or any input?
If so, was the outcome what you expected....

Just want some guidance b4 I mess it up...

 

[Itsricmo]

Just dive all in.... lol

I have no experience but I would assume it is like any other wood.... Sand it down all nice and what not... slap on some nice finish of choice and then I would put some form of clear-coat or sealant on it personally...

 

[GunnyGene]

Start with 80 or 100 grit to remove the finish, then move to 120 -> 180 -> 220 or higher till you get the smoothness you want. Clean the surface with mineral spirits and let dry between each grit. There will be some of the original finish that will remain in the pores of the wood to some depth. Don't worry about it.

Generally speaking you can make a wood darker, but not lighter (unless you use paint). Some woods can be bleached, but I wouldn't recommend it on this project.

Finish - several products on the market from plain old boiled linseed oil to spray on laquers and epoxies. I'd recommend using a wipe-on varnish such as Formby's. Readily available, reasonably durable. 4 or 5 coats should do it. The first coat or 2 will likely soak in so keep applying until you get a surface that remains equally wet looking for a few minutes. Use a clean white t-shirt type cloth pad to apply the finish for each coat. Make a wrinkle free ball of the pad wipe it on and let sit till dry.

If you stain first, let the piece sit for at least a week before applying the finish. And a day or 2 between each coat of clear finish. You should also very lightly sand off any dust nubbins between coats with 220 or higher grit.

PS: Do you know if the stock is laminated or solid? If laminated and with a thin veneer be very careful about sanding thru it. Take the butt plate off and you should be able to tell.

 

[stigmata]

Just dive all in.... lol

I have no experience but I would assume it is like any other wood.... Sand it down all nice and what not... slap on some nice finish of choice and then I would put some form of clear-coat or sealant on it personally...

probly should!!! Wouldn't be the first time

 

[stigmata]

Start with 80 or 100 grit to remove the finish, then move to 120 -> 180 -> 220 or higher till you get the smoothness you want. Clean the surface with mineral spirits and let dry between each grit. There will be some of the original finish that will remain in the pores of the wood to some depth. Don't worry about it.

Generally speaking you can make a wood darker, but not lighter (unless you use paint). Some woods can be bleached, but I wouldn't recommend it on this project.

Finish - several products on the market from plain old boiled linseed oil to spray on laquers and epoxies. I'd recommend using a wipe-on varnish such as Formby's. Readily available, reasonably durable. 4 or 5 coats should do it. The first coat or 2 will likely soak in so keep applying until you get a surface that remains equally wet looking for a few minutes. Use a clean white t-shirt type cloth pad to apply the finish for each coat. Make a wrinkle free ball of the pad wipe it on and let sit till dry.

If you stain first, let the piece sit for at least a week before applying the finish. And a day or 2 between each coat of clear finish. You should also very lightly sand off any dust nubbins between coats with 220 or higher grit.

PS: Do you know if the stock is laminated or solid? If laminated and with a thin veneer be very careful about sanding thru it. Take the butt plate off and you should be able to tell.

Thanks for the info gunny, I do plan to go a darker shade on it.
I'll check to make sure the stock but I'm sure its solid. Its off a Mossberg 500.
Looking forward to test my wood staining skills.....

 

[GunnyGene]

Thanks for the info gunny, I do plan to go a darker shade on it.
I'll check to make sure the stock but I'm sure its solid. Its off a Mossberg 500.
Looking forward to test my wood staining skills.....

There are alternatives to stain. TransTint is a dye that you can adjust to suit and doesn't hide the grain as much as stain does. http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.c ... nsTint.htm Just be aware that a 2 or 3 drops in a small cup of water or denatured alcohol goes a long ways.

Unless you have some of the same species handy that you could use as a test piece it's really hard to advise you much. I guess just go slow. You can always make it darker with additional stain or dye.

One other thing. Pour as much finish or stain as you think you'll need into a separate container to use for that coat, and put the top back on the can immediately. If you have some left over don't pour it back in the can. All this stuff starts to cure when air hits it, and you don't want to contaminate what's in the can. I use old butter tubs, or sour cream containers, and jars for this - whatever usually get tossed in the kitchen garbage when empty. Wash them out good, use once and toss them out after each session. Probably got 100 of various sizes in the shop.

 

[stigmata]

Nice option....
I've never dyed wood, just plastic/composit before in a sink.
Thinking of doing a chemical strip vice the sanding route, then stain or dye the wood.
In either case I'll more than likely do a test piece first to see the results.