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Frog Lube - Report after 550 rounds

Water Monkey

Water Monkey

The man, the myth, the monkey
Moderator
Supporter
Here's the update:

Glock 19 - 9mm:

550 rounds through it. American Eagle, Freedom Munitions (reloaded) and Winchester white box.

Zero failures!

I treated the gun 3 times with heat prior to doing this test.

Cleaning up - 10 minutes max. 95% of the carbon wiped off with a rag. Really impressive. Some tough carbon build up on the feed ramp... used a little more frog lube and a brush and it came right off.

Used some frog lube on the inside of the barrel, brass brush, and patches... wow that stuff really gets the crap out of the barrel.

Used a tiny amount of frog lube on the barrel, slide grooves and put it back together. WOW is all I can say.

Sig P220 Stainless - 45 ACP:

Same 3 treatments before I used it. Shot 50 rounds through it. No failures. Cleaning was super quick as I just wiped off the carbon with a rag and used a tiny bit to re-lube as with the glock.

Really cool to see the stainless steel wipe off so easily.

Mossberg 590A1 - 12G:

Did 35 rounds of bird shot as a function test for an upcoming shotgun course. Flawless. Clean up was stupid quick... this gun really doesn't get all that dirty even after some good roundage.

I did run some frog lube through the barrel and some patches (no brush). It ate up the carbon in the barrel and the patches were pulling out all sort of stuff.

Mossberg 930 (my skeet/hunting gun) 12G:

Ran 35 rounds of various ammo mainly bird, 5 rds of buck.

Ran a box of ammo this shotgun HATES (Estate white box bird shot).... still hates it. 2 FTE… but that was anticipated.

Ran a box of federal birdshot and it chewed it up no problem.

Cleaning was rather easy. I was expecting the gas piston to be cleaner with the frog lube but it wasn't.. it was about the same. But it wiped off no problem unlike with just CLP or Gun Oil.

Pulled some gunk out of the barrel with the frog lube and patches (no brush)

All in all I'm sold. This stuff basically does it all. It cleans, lubes, protects, smells good, works, and isn't toxic.

Hope this helps,
 
Sounds like that frog lube really works. Great review WM thank you.
 
like to see how it works on the tail end of an AR15 bolt, probably pretty good
 
Hell yeah!

Put 1000 rounds of various 9mm through my STI Spartan after a single application of Frog Lube, not cleaning it or applying any additional lube for the few months it took to get through the test. Zero failures through the 1000 rounds. It's now my go-to all purpose product...
 
I love this stuff....the paste seems to work better than the liquid though...
 
I was looking for a one stop shop product and it seems I've found it. Wife don't complain about the smell and after the labor intensive first treatment clean up is a cinch.
 
LAZY EYED SNIPER said:
oli700 said:
like to see how it works on the tail end of an AR15 bolt, probably pretty good
Click to expand...

...works great on mine...
Click to expand...

just wipe off or still a bit of a scrub?....I've never had to scrape yet but scrub good with a brush. I keep the bolt wet with CLP and my main powder ,3031, if not that dirty so I haven't seen it as bad as it can apparently get
 
I apply then reassemble dry, no additional lube.

After a trip to the range I simply wipe down the bolt and interior of the receiver with a dry cloth...
 
I'm new to the board and a new Mossberg owner. As for Frog Lube paste for a couple of years now, on a number of semiautomatic pistols, rifles and WWII vintage bolt actions (the latter are notorious for bolt sticking problems). Since I almost asphyxiated myself in my basement using hoppe's I made the jump to Frog Lube... I did try a couple of slightly cheaper "bio" clp's but none of them come close to Frog Lube.

If you're working on a used weapon, I highly recommend that you do as good of a job of stripping the petroleum lubes off, using isoprophyl alcohol or using boiling water (only on metal), and then when dried and clean, warm up the metal to 120-150 degrees and give it a good, but thin, coating of either the paste or spray. You can either use a fan or let it cool naturally, but after 3 or 4 treatments, you will be amazed by how much crap you are able to wick out of the metal and how smooth things slide.

I've used it on 5 Mosin's, the oldest being one that was made in 1913 and the difference between when I got it and now are day and night. I no longer have bolts seizing up after 10 or 15 rounds, I can generally cycle a bolt using two fingers, hot or cold, and it's gotten well over a century's worth of copper build fouling out. I have a number of Beretta's an AK and now I'm tempering my 715T, before I run anything through it.

Yeah, there's a lot of stuff that's cheaper out there, but you don't get the same results. I have yet to have anything not cycle properly, I don't have a lot of lead or copper fouling and after letting the clp cool in a warm barrel, I'm usually pushing a completely clean patch through on the 6 or 7th one.

As for the raging debates, I'm just going to stay out of them, as this stuff simply works for me better than anything else.
 
Personally I have been using Break Free for 30+ years and have never seen a need to change. I did try some Frog Lube and really couldn't see any improvement.

Sent from my BNTV600 using Tapatalk
 
So….I went out a few days ago and put 3 mags through the AR and it ran fine, didn’t clean it.
Just got back from putting 300 or so rounds out and started having stoppages after about 100 rounds. I thought I was having a magazine problem , put that one aside and shot again.
Had a couple more stoppages. I was suspecting ammo but couldn’t really pin it on the ammo.
I broke it down and the BCG rails seemed dry, inside of the receiver had wetness to it but not overly wet. I couldn’t find anything wrong with the bolt, extractor claw or anything, not overly dirty.
So I went to the truck, took out the dipstick, put oil on the rails and gas rings. Put in a Beta mag and dropped 100 rounds fairly quick without a stoppage.
Ran three more mags through the barrier drills and it didn’t stop again.


I heated the parts good and coated them well, till the FL was running off. Let it cool till it had a dull goop and wiped off the excess…..am I doing this wrong?
because the rifle is in good shape, mags and ammo are good…..the only thing it could have been was too dry and after some used motor oil it never stopped again and I tortured it.

also some got in the trigger because before I left I was showing a buddy the CMC trigger and it would not come off the reset. The only thing I did was add Froglube so I took the heatgun heated the trigger group till I saw some liquid and heated some more, wiped it all off and it worked perfect so too much on a trigger isn't good and that makes since because that really doesn't heat up and took too much space up on the spring not letting it compress fully and resetting the trigger

My CZ ran great but only shot 50 rounds though it and my G29 got about 30 rounds and it ran fine as well, both Froglubed
 
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What was your initial application process?

How did you strip off the petroleum product prior to using frog lube?

How many applications did you do?

What areas did you apply?

Did you use a microfiber cloth or a rag? I've noticed rags take off too much of the product vs a microfiber cloth.
 
What was your initial application process?

so I striped the BCG, striped the bolt. Heated all the separate parts enough that I couldn't hold them, then I squirted on the FL liberally , when it cooled enough to touch I rubbed it in and used a qtip to work it in the tight spots. Let it all cool to a point it seemed to solidify . Heated the receiver and did the same thing. Heated the barrel extension and let hot air run down the bore, applied with a soaked patch, let it cool and followed with several dry patches

How did you strip off the petroleum product prior to using frog lube?
I just wiped it down till the metal was dry, wasn't very oily at all before and it seemed the metal was all dry when I started


How many applications did you do?

I just did it once

What areas did you apply?
Bolt carrier, bolt, extractor , firing pin, gas rings, ejector pin, cam pin, inside upper receiver, barrel extension, bore, hammer, sear surfaces

Did you use a microfiber cloth or a rag? .

I used Otis cleaning patches, when I was done wiping off excess it all seemed pretty dry. I wouldn't normally shoot it after it because it appeared dry, initial 3 mags ran fine though. Took it out last night and ran through barrier drills and only had mags loaded with 5 rounds each so I could do mag changes and it started happening after about 60 rounds. All stopped when I put on motor oil
 
According to Michael / Froglube tech support, the paste is like 50w motor oil, the samples that appear as a mixture of paste and liquid is like 30w motor oil, and the spray on CLP is like 20w motor oil. He recommended the spray on for below 0F use and the paste for above 90f use. The samples can be used in both if the firearm runs it (Again, this is according to a guy named Michael in Froglube's technical support group).
 
I had used the sample tube . I was hesitant to put petroleum oil on it all because I though I read they don't play well together but I had no other choice. After I literally dumped a beta mag of 100 fast and not one hiccup
 
MikeT said:
According to Michael / Froglube tech support, the paste is like 50w motor oil, the samples that appear as a mixture of paste and liquid is like 30w motor oil, and the spray on CLP is like 20w motor oil. He recommended the spray on for below 0F use and the paste for above 90f use. The samples can be used in both if the firearm runs it (Again, this is according to a guy named Michael in Froglube's technical support group).
Click to expand...



See you got further with them then I did I asked what they would recommend to me as where I live temps of -30 c are not abnormal all I was told was some customers have reported using or product to -40 and those who had problems applied the product wrong. No mention of spray vs paste.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
oli700 said:
What was your initial application process?

so I striped the BCG, striped the bolt. Heated all the separate parts enough that I couldn't hold them, then I squirted on the FL liberally , when it cooled enough to touch I rubbed it in and used a qtip to work it in the tight spots. Let it all cool to a point it seemed to solidify . Heated the receiver and did the same thing. Heated the barrel extension and let hot air run down the bore, applied with a soaked patch, let it cool and followed with several dry patches

How did you strip off the petroleum product prior to using frog lube?
I just wiped it down till the metal was dry, wasn't very oily at all before and it seemed the metal was all dry when I started


How many applications did you do?

I just did it once

What areas did you apply?
Bolt carrier, bolt, extractor , firing pin, gas rings, ejector pin, cam pin, inside upper receiver, barrel extension, bore, hammer, sear surfaces

Did you use a microfiber cloth or a rag? .

I used Otis cleaning patches, when I was done wiping off excess it all seemed pretty dry. I wouldn't normally shoot it after it because it appeared dry, initial 3 mags ran fine though. Took it out last night and ran through barrier drills and only had mags loaded with 5 rounds each so I could do mag changes and it started happening after about 60 rounds. All stopped when I put on motor oil
Click to expand...


Just some thoughts:

1) when you strip it down you need to degrease it. They recommend denatured alcohol to strip all petroleum products off of it. I'd do that again with denatured alcohol. You could be running into the product acting with residual petroleum after the initial 100 rounds and placed on the rack. When you took it out again it was probably gunked and sluggish because of the activation (just a guess).

2) I'd do a minimum of 3 applications/heat process (which is what I did) to really get that stuff in the metal. Especially since you will be running it hard. Let the product settle for 1/2 hour before you wipe it off and do the next application process of heating it.

3) You shouldn't wipe it away totally dry. I've noticed when I use an old shirt it really strips away most of the product. When I use a microfiber cloth (as they recommend) I notice more product left on the metal and it feels very slick to the touch.

Try that process and see if you gain any better results. Thanks for keeping us up to date on how it works on an AR platform!
 
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