What are those bulk skeet shells good for?
- Thread starter John A.
- Start date
TheJackal
.410
It's OK - I wasn't alarmed as the rounds I've made with them have shot just fine - it was worth looking into though!
Slightly off topic - but I'll post it here anyway since I'm using bulk skeet hulls for developing this load
I found myself watching casting videos on YT tonight and came across people who've discovered they can load their pistol brass with a live primer, no powder, and hot glue projectiles.
Yes - bullets cast from hot glue.
The end result is a round that is safe to fire indoors with minimal noise and a phonebook or a box stuffed with towels is sufficient for a backstop.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ANy39pHrDA[/youtube]
This is what has intrigued me - perhaps such a thing might be possible with 12ga?
I figure it's worth a try for the sake of Redneck Science , so I ran down to the shop and fired up the glue gun, cast one and trimmed down a primed shell and matching wad.
This was the result.
Tomorrow I'll assemble it and take it out to the garage and see what happens.
My suspicion is that it's not going to have the enough power to push the slug out of the barrel and it will squib, but I could be wrong.
Slightly off topic - but I'll post it here anyway since I'm using bulk skeet hulls for developing this load
I found myself watching casting videos on YT tonight and came across people who've discovered they can load their pistol brass with a live primer, no powder, and hot glue projectiles.
Yes - bullets cast from hot glue.
The end result is a round that is safe to fire indoors with minimal noise and a phonebook or a box stuffed with towels is sufficient for a backstop.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ANy39pHrDA[/youtube]
This is what has intrigued me - perhaps such a thing might be possible with 12ga?
I figure it's worth a try for the sake of Redneck Science , so I ran down to the shop and fired up the glue gun, cast one and trimmed down a primed shell and matching wad.
This was the result.
Tomorrow I'll assemble it and take it out to the garage and see what happens.
My suspicion is that it's not going to have the enough power to push the slug out of the barrel and it will squib, but I could be wrong.
daytime dave
.270 WIN
A long time ago I bought 500 wax bullets that went with six specially drilled out .38 brass shells that put shotgun primers in. I think I still have 494 wax bullets and all the accessories.
I'm interested too in how your glue slug works.
I'm interested too in how your glue slug works.
TheJackal
.410
nitesite said:
I'm actually not going to be loading powder with this one - Just using the primer alone for the initial test.
Honestly if it doesn't work with just the primer, I'm going to dump and forget the idea entirely.
The main draw and potential I see is that being primer-powered only - they're quiet and relatively safe to be fired indoors with a suitable backstop. If they require any amount of powder, that automatically makes it something I would never use indoors.
However - should these actually turn out to work on just the primer - I can already think of at least three interesting and potentially useful applications for them - though it *heavily* depends on how much force they're getting out of the bore with - or if they even get out of there at all.
The first one is purely for sport - just shooting glue into a cardboard box for fun in your garage - the novelty of a pop gun but with a real firearm.
The second would be for teaching new shooters and training people on the in's and out's of a new or unfamiliar weapons platform.
The third is a little more serious and more dangerous but may serve as the most useful purpose. . .
Just let me be VERY clear that I am **NOT NOT NOT** advocating one do this - even more so that it is currently UNTESTED and is right now PURE SPECULATION . . .
If they work on primer alone and they're not too fast - they *MIGHT* serve as a useful "simulation round" for setting up and running a mock home defense scenario that actually involves taking a shot on a large backstop dressed up as a "bad guy" - it really doesn't get much more real than that. Being able to run through that scenario over and over again and learn from your mistakes, what works and what doesn't - could make the difference if it ever happened for real.
Though I say again that is nothing but PURE SPECULATION and NOT something I suggest one try and do.
TheJackal
.410
OK guys!
I got to test this concept this afternoon and I have good news!
They work with primers just fine out of my 20" barrel Mossberg 500!
I did have the larger wad in the posts above fail to leave the barrel on the first shot, though the slug did make it all the way out.
Switching to a shorter, lighter wad solved this issue for all subsequent shots.
The rounds are very quiet - about as loud as a pneumatic pellet gun - and they exit the muzzle at a moderately tame speed!
The only downside is they are relatively dirty, and dirty up a barrel fairly quick - however a quick spritz of your CLP of choice and chasing it once with a boresnake cleans it right back up.
Here's the impact it made on a book I use for a pellet gun backstop - really nothing too serious at all.
What's perhaps the best thing about them though - is that the only component expended is the primer - the hull, wad, and projectile can all be re-used over and over again.
I'm pretty happy with how this turned out!
:mrgreen:
Should anyone decide to replicate these, do so at your own risk - and be sure to check your barrel for obstructions after every shot.
I got to test this concept this afternoon and I have good news!
They work with primers just fine out of my 20" barrel Mossberg 500!
I did have the larger wad in the posts above fail to leave the barrel on the first shot, though the slug did make it all the way out.
Switching to a shorter, lighter wad solved this issue for all subsequent shots.
The rounds are very quiet - about as loud as a pneumatic pellet gun - and they exit the muzzle at a moderately tame speed!
The only downside is they are relatively dirty, and dirty up a barrel fairly quick - however a quick spritz of your CLP of choice and chasing it once with a boresnake cleans it right back up.
Here's the impact it made on a book I use for a pellet gun backstop - really nothing too serious at all.
What's perhaps the best thing about them though - is that the only component expended is the primer - the hull, wad, and projectile can all be re-used over and over again.
I'm pretty happy with how this turned out!
:mrgreen:
Should anyone decide to replicate these, do so at your own risk - and be sure to check your barrel for obstructions after every shot.
Malagamarksman
.270 WIN
Mossy
I have used RIO brand cartridges for conversion to LEE slugs many times. In fact they were the 1st brand I used for conversion from shotshell to slug.
The shotcup is PERFECT for the LEE slug. No bulging of the shotshell case, re-crimps just like factory on my LEE press.
I don't use them now as I have found cheaper locally made ones that are just as good for this purpose.
Oh BTW I did an accuracy test between the Jeff Tanner 1oz round ball and the LEE 1oz slug on Thursday.
At 25 metres out of my Maverick 88...........................nothing to choose between them.
I have used RIO brand cartridges for conversion to LEE slugs many times. In fact they were the 1st brand I used for conversion from shotshell to slug.
The shotcup is PERFECT for the LEE slug. No bulging of the shotshell case, re-crimps just like factory on my LEE press.
I don't use them now as I have found cheaper locally made ones that are just as good for this purpose.
Oh BTW I did an accuracy test between the Jeff Tanner 1oz round ball and the LEE 1oz slug on Thursday.
At 25 metres out of my Maverick 88...........................nothing to choose between them.
I got out today and picked up some RIO 2 3/4" 1oz 1205fps #8 target shells for the Lee 1oz slugs.
Length wise they are the same as Federal target loads before and after cutting them open.
They use a one piece shot wad/cup and the Lee 1oz slug slips in no problem. I'm not sure if I need to trim cup petals to roll crimp. Sorry for the pic quality.
Length wise they are the same as Federal target loads before and after cutting them open.
They use a one piece shot wad/cup and the Lee 1oz slug slips in no problem. I'm not sure if I need to trim cup petals to roll crimp. Sorry for the pic quality.
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911JB
.410
TheJackal said:It's OK - I wasn't alarmed as the rounds I've made with them have shot just fine - it was worth looking into though!
Slightly off topic - but I'll post it here anyway since I'm using bulk skeet hulls for developing this load
I found myself watching casting videos on YT tonight and came across people who've discovered they can load their pistol brass with a live primer, no powder, and hot glue projectiles.
Yes - bullets cast from hot glue.
The end result is a round that is safe to fire indoors with minimal noise and a phonebook or a box stuffed with towels is sufficient for a backstop.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ANy39pHrDA[/youtube]
This is what has intrigued me - perhaps such a thing might be possible with 12ga?
I figure it's worth a try for the sake of Redneck Science , so I ran down to the shop and fired up the glue gun, cast one and trimmed down a primed shell and matching wad.
This was the result.
Tomorrow I'll assemble it and take it out to the garage and see what happens.
My suspicion is that it's not going to have the enough power to push the slug out of the barrel and it will squib, but I could be wrong.
Somewhere around the gun room I still have some of the old two piece plastic case and bullets from the 70's. It was the same principal as these glue shells [only the case and bullet were made of plastic] . A primer was used to fire them and we used them for indoor winter in Iowa trigger time.
Got bored at work (as happens this time of year) and since I had a few supplies with me I decided to try slug casting. Great ventilation system, just set the exhaust hose over the melting pot and turn it on. Better than the first time I tried it here...LOL.
Anyway, looking for some constructive criticism and suggestions. I used the Franklin Arsenal spray and the slugs fell out easily. Used two Lee molds and preheated them with my propane torch. The first ones came out very wrinkly, looked like worm holes around the outside. Upped the heat on the melter and they came out a bit better but not perfect.
The pics are in no particular order...I took them after putting them all in a pile. One of the first in on the far right of one of the pics. The rest that were wrinkled badly I remelted.
Quite a bit of fun but I need a longer spoon to get the crap out of the melter. My work gloves are no match for the heat...LOL. BTW, these were all made with used m/c wheel weights...
Anyway, looking for some constructive criticism and suggestions. I used the Franklin Arsenal spray and the slugs fell out easily. Used two Lee molds and preheated them with my propane torch. The first ones came out very wrinkly, looked like worm holes around the outside. Upped the heat on the melter and they came out a bit better but not perfect.
The pics are in no particular order...I took them after putting them all in a pile. One of the first in on the far right of one of the pics. The rest that were wrinkled badly I remelted.
Quite a bit of fun but I need a longer spoon to get the crap out of the melter. My work gloves are no match for the heat...LOL. BTW, these were all made with used m/c wheel weights...
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Looks like they're cooling off to quickly. A little more heat.
As for keeping the lead from sticking in the mold, if you hold a match underneath of the mold and let the smoke build up on the contact surfaces of the mold, that little layer of carbon build up will prevent the lead from sticking.
To be honest, I usually have to experiment with the heat even between batches to start getting nice smooth pretty looking slugs. But looks like you could probably use most of those despite not being as "pretty" as factory slugs.
The lee melting pot I have, I usually set the temp high to begin with, and watch it. As it just starts to change colors (to bluish purple-which indicates that it's too hot), I turn it back down to about 4.
Yes, I'm impatient LOL
As for keeping the lead from sticking in the mold, if you hold a match underneath of the mold and let the smoke build up on the contact surfaces of the mold, that little layer of carbon build up will prevent the lead from sticking.
To be honest, I usually have to experiment with the heat even between batches to start getting nice smooth pretty looking slugs. But looks like you could probably use most of those despite not being as "pretty" as factory slugs.
The lee melting pot I have, I usually set the temp high to begin with, and watch it. As it just starts to change colors (to bluish purple-which indicates that it's too hot), I turn it back down to about 4.
Yes, I'm impatient LOL