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Decisions on a HD shotgun

I know nothing is wrong with used in a lot of cases but I just don't like it if I can avoid it and since this is my first shotgun/gun purchase I would like to say I bought it new. :p
 
Here is a question that may answer my decision. With the bluing and it being shiney, does it ever effect you sometimes when aiming, lets say for instance the sun beaming on it and it may reflect back into your eye. Have you ever had that problem?
 
This is confusing, I've read many and one says bluing is better against corrosion, the other says parkerizing and another says matte. I honestly don't know how I will treat this gun, I do plan on buying a plastic case to put it in the same time I buy it. I just know for a while I would keep up with it but after a while I might just do it less and less and less and than end up not doing it at all.
 
JSM said:
This is confusing, I've read many and one says bluing is better against corrosion, the other says parkerizing and another says matte. I honestly don't know how I will treat this gun, I do plan on buying a plastic case to put it in the same time I buy it. I just know for a while I would keep up with it but after a while I might just do it less and less and less and than end up not doing it at all.
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Any finish can be "matte". Matte is not a type of finish such as bluing or parkerizing, anodizing, etc. The definition of matte is "dull". Such as flat paint.

Parkerizing and blueing:

Parkerizing, bonderizing, phosphating, or phosphatizing is a method of protecting a steel surface from corrosion and increasing its resistance to wear through the application of an electrochemical phosphate conversion coating. Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or manganese phosphating process, and not to be an improved iron phosphating process, although some use the term parkerizing as a generic term for applying phosphating (or phosphatizing) coatings that does include the iron phosphating process.

Parkerizing is commonly used on firearms as a more effective alternative to bluing, which is another electrochemical conversion coating that was developed earlier. It's also used extensively on automobiles to protect unfinished metal parts from corrosion.

The Parkerizing process cannot be used on non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, or copper. It similarly cannot be applied to steels containing a large amount of nickel, or on stainless steel. Passivation can be used for protecting other metals.
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Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4), the black oxide of iron. Black oxide provides minimal protection against corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action. A distinction can be made between traditional bluing and some other more modern black oxide coatings, although bluing is a subset of black oxide coatings.

In comparison, rust, the red oxide of iron (Fe2O3), undergoes an extremely large volume change upon hydration; as a result, the oxide easily flakes off causing the typical reddish rusting away of iron. "Cold", "Hot", "Rust Blue" and "Fume Blue" are oxidizing processes simply referred to as bluing.

"Cold" bluing is generally a selenium dioxide based compound that colors steel black, or more often a very dark gray. It is a difficult product to apply evenly, offers minimal protection and is generally best used for small fast repair jobs and touch-ups.

The "Hot" process is an alkali salt solution, referred to as "Traditional Caustic Black", that is typically done at an elevated temperature, 275 to 310 °F (135 to 154 °C). This method was adopted by larger firearm companies for large scale, more economical bluing. It does provide good rust resistance which is improved with the use of oil.

"Rust Bluing" and "Fume Bluing" provide the best rust and corrosion resistance as the process continually converts any metal that is capable of rusting into magnetite (Fe3O4). Treating with an oiled coating enhances the protection offered by the bluing. This process is also the only process safely used to re-blue vintage shotguns. Many double barreled shotguns are silver brazed together and many of the parts are attached by that method also. The higher temperatures of the other processes as well as their caustic nature can weaken the brazed joints and make the gun hazardous to use.[citation needed]

Bluing can also be done in a furnace, for example for a sword or other item traditionally made by a blacksmith or specialist such as a weaponsmith. Blacksmith products to this day may occasionally be found made from blued steel by traditional craftsmen in cultures and segments of society who use that technology either by necessity or choice.[1]
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Not sure where you're getting your info, but bluing is corrosion. Or probably could be described better as chemically controlled oxidation.

park is an electro-chemical metal treatment.

Blue is typically more glossy.

Parkerization is generally more matte/dull appearance.

You really should keep both oiled/preserved regardless of which you have.

Edit:

Didn't mean to copycat your answer Gunny. We were replying at the same time.
 
John A. said:
Not sure where you're getting your info, but bluing is corrosion. Or probably could be described better as chemically controlled oxidation.

park is an electro-chemical metal treatment.

Blue is typically more glossy.

Parkerization is generally more matte/dull appearance.

You really should keep both oiled/preserved regardless of which you have.

Edit:

Didn't mean to copycat your answer Gunny. We were replying at the same time.
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That's ok. I won the race :lol:
 
JSM said:
I read this, just got me confused plus what other forums said and what they said.. .hurts my brain. lol

http://madogre.com/?page_id=1169
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Ok, to simplify: Both Blueing and Parkerizing are chemical changes/treatments to the surface of certain metals to retard corrosion by causing controlled corrosion/oxidation. Bluing came first. Parkerizing came next because of changes in the metals used in guns. Both are treatments that change the surface of the metal. Which is why you won't see a stainless steel blued gun - it don't work, and it's not necessary in the first place. A metallurgist could explain it better, but I think you get the idea.

Matte is not a chemical change, but a look or appearance, and has zero to do with protecting the metal from the elements.

The only mineral I'm aware of that will never oxidize is gold. All others will oxidize over time and exposure to oxygen, including stainless steel. Some will start to oxidize within minutes, others take hundreds of thousands of years.
 
So if I read what I read correctly in the link that I posted, matte is still a bluing process but it just has a matte look and feel. If I understand what someone else said correctly is that since matte has nooks and cranies which can retain moisture and than make it easier to rust vs just plain bluing.
 
JSM said:
So if I read whatever I read correctly, matte is still a bluing process but it just has a matte look and feel. If I understand what someone else said correctly is that since matte has nooks and cranies which can retain moisture and than make it easier to rust vs just plain bluing.
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No. Matte is not a blueing process. It is simply a dull appearing finish. Period. Could be paint. It sometimes will be a result of some chemical treatment of the metal, but that is secondary and may be unintentional or intentional.
 
I'm just going to forget all the stuff I read before ya'lls explanation and just stick to what ya'll posted. I know matte paint but I don't know anything about the process it takes to blue and I could swear I saw someone say something about matte bluing and since I don't know about the bluing process it.... I don't know I need to take a break from the internet. lol
 
JSM said:
I'm just going to forget all the stuff I read before ya'lls explanation and just stick to what ya'll posted. I know matte paint but I don't know anything about the process it takes to blue and I could swear I saw someone say something about matte bluing and since I don't know about the bluing process it.... I don't know I need to take a break from the internet. lol
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Oh, c'mon. We're just getting started. Haven't even mentioned anodizing, alodizing or about a thousand other metal treatments/alloys intended to extend the useful life of various metals. :mrgreen: :twisted:
 
I know about anodizing, and powder coating, and regular paint and some other things, I was just looking at too many sources in a given moment and it just started getting confusing when one person would say this and everyone would agree and I would go somewhere else and they said another thing that completely is the opposite of what someone else said and people agree with that...
 
Hoppe's # 9 is a solvent. Before all the higher tech stuff came out cleaning a gun was a couple step process. First you broke out the solvent of some sort, Hoppes is one of the most popular and best performing. Clean all the residue, copper fouling and dirt off with solvent , then wipe down with an oil of your choice which can run a wide gamut of personal preference.

I have been enjoying CLP. I was skeptical of an all in one cleaner/oil but it works and works good. There are so many things now to clean firearms it endless.

Cleaning firearms can be as simple or over complicated as you choose these days. There are folks who wont clean a rifle with nothing less than a 50 dollar carbon fiber cleaning rod and all the little do dads on the shelf......
 
Hoppes does make different things but #9 is a solvent. I first heard about CLP reading about the military using it to clean and lube firearms and vets swearing by it so good enough for me , simpler then most cleaning solutions and not outrageously priced
 
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