Barnes TSX, and the identical TAC-X is a simply wonderful HP rifle bullet.
.30-30 my latest reloads, and the state of the economy
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Barnes TSX, and the identical TAC-X is a simply wonderful HP rifle bullet.
hombre243
.30-06
nitesite sorry about that. I was going from memory. I will look at my ammo and see what I did use and correct. I know I did not use a small pistol mag primer in a rifle cartridge.
I found the ammo I loaded and I used the 5 1/2 in my 9mm loads. I have never used the 5 1/2 primer or any Remington primer in any rifle loads. My primers have been CCI or Winchester for Small rifle and Federal and Winchester in the large size rifle. Thanks for catching this. But I have used over 2000 of the remington 5 1/2 primers in 9mms as well as 45 acp small primer cases and I have not had any problems.
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hombre243
.30-06
I will use up these loads and then make sure which Remington primer I get the next time. I doubt I need a magnum primer and a long time ago when I got those 5 1/2s I did not know they were magnums. I don't remember where I read it but I found this info out in some article. But, what I read did not alarm me so it must not have been the intent of the article to sound the alarm. I know it now and I will stay from them. Thanks again. (good catch)
hombre243~
If you are looking for Remington primers for .223 Rem or 5.56mm you should strive to get Remington 7 1/2 primers. They are extremely good, almost benchrest quality (many US ARMY AMU and NRA Camp Perry shooters use the 7 1/2 for their go-to primer), and the primers have cup hardnesses and thicknesses to perform great with .223/5.56mm. CCI #41s are good for high pressure .223/5.56 as are CCI 450s especially with ball type powders.
If you are looking for Remington primers for .223 Rem or 5.56mm you should strive to get Remington 7 1/2 primers. They are extremely good, almost benchrest quality (many US ARMY AMU and NRA Camp Perry shooters use the 7 1/2 for their go-to primer), and the primers have cup hardnesses and thicknesses to perform great with .223/5.56mm. CCI #41s are good for high pressure .223/5.56 as are CCI 450s especially with ball type powders.
hombre243
.30-06
When I first got the MVP 5.56 I had one place close by to get primers and I got the Remingtons there. All he had for my 9mm was the 5 1/2s so I got a couple thousand. I got the small rifle and large pistol primers online because the local guy was out of almost everything. After that I started going to Iowa City and did my shopping there. I never really looked for Remingtons specifically and by the looks of my groups I probably don't need that extra expense. I pay about $29.00/1000 for CCI and Winchester as compared to $39.99 for Remingtons. BUT I thank you for the advice. I have not loaded enough ammo and tested different components against each other so I don't know that much about what is better than the other. I will ask when I go get primers again. If they are less that what they were last trip I may get some. As far as pistol shooting and reloading...I got a supply of small and large primers and I doubt I will need many more anytime soon. I am still shooting ammo I loaded before I moved to Texas...and back in 2012. And i started reloading for the 9mm and 45 acp way before that. I just don't shoot that much. Between losing my cdl to diabetes/insulin; having a car broke down most of the winter and now a leg infection...again diabetes related, and a lower than usual income because I can't go look for a job until the leg heals...I haven't been out to shoot anything since last fall...prior to October.
Let me ask...I saw on one of the sites CCI has mil spec primers...are these worth the expense? I think MidSouth has them.
CCI Mil-Spec primers are #34 for large Rifle .308 and .30-06 military guns because the free=float firing pins on these guns work great with those less-sensitive primers during cycling and bolt slam. If you use extruded powder like IMR-4895 and IMR 4064 you can do well with many magnum large Mil-Spec rifle primers in certain guns but be ginger with the M1 Garand. They really do work great for this. And if you use IMR-3031 or some other BALL type propellant the #34 primer is a good choice because ball powder NEEDS a strong brissance primer to get that dense ball powder touched off properly.
I should mention that the #34 (and it's smaller cousin the #41 for small rifle magnum) are insensitive enough to firing pin bumps to help prevent a slam fire in a mil-gun that doesn't retain its FP by a spring (free floating)
So an intelligent choice for a Small Rifle Magnum primer for any AR-15 .223/5.56 will come down to (because of the brissance when using ball powder as well as the floating firing pin which strikes the cartridge in chambering)..
CCI #41
CCI #450
Remington 7 1/2
I should mention that the #34 (and it's smaller cousin the #41 for small rifle magnum) are insensitive enough to firing pin bumps to help prevent a slam fire in a mil-gun that doesn't retain its FP by a spring (free floating)
So an intelligent choice for a Small Rifle Magnum primer for any AR-15 .223/5.56 will come down to (because of the brissance when using ball powder as well as the floating firing pin which strikes the cartridge in chambering)..
CCI #41
CCI #450
Remington 7 1/2
Yeah that's what we're using:
Remington 7 1/2 in .223
Remington 9 1/2 in the .30_30
I do believe they are less sensitive than the federal primers we were using previously.
I bought some CCI primers for the next batch just because that's what the guy had for sale.
Remington 7 1/2 in .223
Remington 9 1/2 in the .30_30
I do believe they are less sensitive than the federal primers we were using previously.
I bought some CCI primers for the next batch just because that's what the guy had for sale.
hombre243
.30-06
Thanks. I have seen them on the shelf at one of the Iowa City stores but didn't know anything about them. I will keep them in mind. I don't have an AR or any semi auto. I have a Savage Model 11 in .308 and an MVP 5.56. And as long as I can still get what I am using now I won't change. I don't know how much difference there will be to a group by changing primers but I like to develop a load and stick with the recipe.
Frankly despite what everybody says I'm still not mad in love with the AR.
I might like it better as the target platform if I had a heavy duty stock.
It was an expensive toy I bought because I knew the value would increase.
I would actually be much more interested in a bolt-action target gun right now.
I might like it better as the target platform if I had a heavy duty stock.
It was an expensive toy I bought because I knew the value would increase.
I would actually be much more interested in a bolt-action target gun right now.
hombre243
.30-06
Go for the MVP in your caliber of choice. I love mine in 5.56. I also have been shooting very well with the Savage 11 V/T in .308. (Varmint/Target.) I got it at Dicks. Bull barrel, either 24 or 26" barrel. Very good gun. (But it is a Dick's "exclusive," or was when I got it.)
hombre243
.30-06
I don't know what the "exclusiveness" is other than they are available only at that one dealer. The one i got looks just like a Hog Hunter with a long bull barrel, no sights and the stock is black. I didn't pick it apart to find out what the differences are. I know for the price I paid I got a good shooter.
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hombre243
.30-06
I had planned and saved for a year to get an AR Kit and tools and at the last minute I decided on the 464. I never looked back. But, if I happen to get back in the mood I will probably go for the MMR. That is a very sexy shooting iron.
hombre243
.30-06
You would hope that you would get a warning in the form of extraction becoming more difficult, rather than suddenly getting a case Stuck right out of the blue. That is how it was with my bolt action. I used to collet size the necks and when bolt lift became noticeably stiffer, it was time to bump die the shoulder.
Whether you would be able to extract the NS case (after say, three or four reloads) with a lever, is something I have no experience with.
Good Luck
You guys got me wondering if it is neck sizing without bumping the shoulder back a couple thousandths is where this problem lies. I can see where a neck can grow and eventually need trimming so it does not stick into the riflings. I can also see how the body will grow if the case is loaded and fired without bumping the neck, which would also affect neck length or overall case length. Using a standard resizing die and adjusting it back to where it sizes the neck but only bumps the shoulder a little bit would work.
I can see a visible line on my cases where the shoulder was pushed back during full length resizing and it is way more than just a couple thousandths. If neck sizing 3030 ammo it probably would work better if the shoulder got a bit of a bump. I will have to try it. I have no cases I fired in this new rifle in order to test the theory but tomorrow may be the day.
Its a Savage Arms-Stevens 325B
hombre243
.30-06
If you use a cartridge to shove the one in front of it in to the tube I can see that happening. I tried unloaded cases and they cycled ok. I still don't have any dummies and probably won't make any. I thumb them in nd they work fine.
hombre243
.30-06
"I shot a couple good groups and the rest were all over the map."
Just covering bases and comparing notes. Re: Stringing or climbing groups. Do you shoot off a rest or in this post are you shooting offhand? I am wondering if we are having a combination platter of our favorite booboos.
I have to use a rest. I have a couple things I want to try next trip out. Mainly I will set up my rest differently so the rifle lays a little farther forward, closer to the balance point of the rifle. Then if that doesn't help, I will use a rear rest for the butt. I noticed a big difference between off hand and shooting from a rest, in how the rifle recoils. Unless you use a butt rest the butt is unsupported, and sitting at the bench, for me, the rifle is not sitting up high enough for me to sit straight up and pack the butt into my shoulder. When I shoot from the rest, I am sloped forward because the rifle is sitting low. I noticed the toe touched the table at times. I need a higher, and I believe a softer front rest. The rifle torqued all over the place and twisted to the right. The kick should come mostly straight back. If the muzzle jumps, the bullets will be off target.
I had no trouble with stringing with the Marlin 336 IMO because it is built for a scope, which means the comb is higher but there is also less drop at the heel and toe and you will get a more solid shoulder mount, even at the bench.
I will load some rounds and head to the range when it quits raining sometime this week. I am hoping that these changes will solve my problems. If you try anything let me know.
hombre243
.30-06
I got schooled a bit more by reading the article about annealing that I just posted the link for in a new thread about Annealing. Other metals get hardened by quenching in water. Even lead. But brass gets soft by the heating process and then stays soft.