Several manufactures offer solid copper projectiles. Barnes TSX is popular. I believe the Hornady FTX is also solid copper,
Barnes TSX, and the identical TAC-X is a simply wonderful HP rifle bullet.
Several manufactures offer solid copper projectiles. Barnes TSX is popular. I believe the Hornady FTX is also solid copper,
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Uhhh..... for safety sake alone I am going to caution everyone reading this post to NOT USE Remington 5-1/2 Primers which are small pistol magnum primers.
Even the Remington 6-1/2 Small Rifle Primer is designed solely for the .22 Hornet and nothing hotter, and this "small rifle" primer will crater and blow when used with cartridges like the .223 Remington.
Here is the Remington Product Catalog : http://www.remington.com/ammunition/components/primers/centerfire-primers
Pay close attention here, please, for what I am warning people about. Thank you for reading.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1601138078/remington-small-rifle-primers-6-1-2 Read the Warning
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Remington-Primers/741162.uts Read the Warning
To use these primers will possibly result in expensive bolt face erosion as the ignition gasses cut backwards like a welding torch against a bolt and firing pin hole. Again, as a Moderator I have a responsibility to pull back some reloading data posted here in this board which could lead to possible firearm damage or possible injury.
Thanks for your time.
Respectfully...
Sounds good, Sir. Ask my wife, I incorrectly recall things every now and then!
I can't remember her name at the moment but give me just a minute......
When I first got the MVP 5.56 I had one place close by to get primers and I got the Remingtons there. All he had for my 9mm was the 5 1/2s so I got a couple thousand. I got the small rifle and large pistol primers online because the local guy was out of almost everything. After that I started going to Iowa City and did my shopping there. I never really looked for Remingtons specifically and by the looks of my groups I probably don't need that extra expense. I pay about $29.00/1000 for CCI and Winchester as compared to $39.99 for Remingtons. BUT I thank you for the advice. I have not loaded enough ammo and tested different components against each other so I don't know that much about what is better than the other. I will ask when I go get primers again. If they are less that what they were last trip I may get some. As far as pistol shooting and reloading...I got a supply of small and large primers and I doubt I will need many more anytime soon. I am still shooting ammo I loaded before I moved to Texas...and back in 2012. And i started reloading for the 9mm and 45 acp way before that. I just don't shoot that much. Between losing my cdl to diabetes/insulin; having a car broke down most of the winter and now a leg infection...again diabetes related, and a lower than usual income because I can't go look for a job until the leg heals...I haven't been out to shoot anything since last fall...prior to October.hombre243~
If you are looking for Remington primers for .223 Rem or 5.56mm you should strive to get Remington 7 1/2 primers. They are extremely good, almost benchrest quality (many US ARMY AMU and NRA Camp Perry shooters use the 7 1/2 for their go-to primer), and the primers have cup hardnesses and thicknesses to perform great with .223/5.56mm. CCI #41s are good for high pressure .223/5.56 as are CCI 450s especially with ball type powders.
Thanks. I have seen them on the shelf at one of the Iowa City stores but didn't know anything about them. I will keep them in mind. I don't have an AR or any semi auto. I have a Savage Model 11 in .308 and an MVP 5.56. And as long as I can still get what I am using now I won't change. I don't know how much difference there will be to a group by changing primers but I like to develop a load and stick with the recipe.CCI Mil-Spec primers are #34 for large Rifle .308 and .30-06 military guns because the free=float firing pins on these guns work great with those less-sensitive primers during cycling and bolt slam. If you use extruded powder like IMR-4895 and IMR 4064 you can do well with many magnum large Mil-Spec rifle primers in certain guns but be ginger with the M1 Garand. They really do work great for this. And if you use IMR-3031 or some other BALL type propellant the #34 primer is a good choice because ball powder NEEDS a strong brissance primer to get that dense ball powder touched off properly.
I should mention that the #34 (and it's smaller cousin the #41 for small rifle magnum) are insensitive enough to firing pin bumps to help prevent a slam fire in a mil-gun that doesn't retain its FP by a spring (free floating)
So an intelligent choice for a Small Rifle Magnum primer for any AR-15 .223/5.56 will come down to (because of the brissance when using ball powder as well as the floating firing pin which strikes the cartridge in chambering)..
CCI #41
CCI #450
Remington 7 1/2
Frankly despite what everybody says I'm still not mad in love with the AR.
It was an expensive toy I bought because I knew the value would increase.
I would actually be much more interested in a bolt-action target gun right now.
I don't know what the "exclusiveness" is other than they are available only at that one dealer. The one i got looks just like a Hog Hunter with a long bull barrel, no sights and the stock is black. I didn't pick it apart to find out what the differences are. I know for the price I paid I got a good shooter.Several of my guns were Davidson's exclusive so I understand.
Frankly despite what everybody says I'm still not mad in love with the AR.
I might like it better as the target platform if I had a heavy duty stock.
It was an expensive toy I bought because I knew the value would increase.
I would actually be much more interested in a bolt-action target gun right now.
You would hope that you would get a warning in the form of extraction becoming more difficult, rather than suddenly getting a case Stuck right out of the blue. That is how it was with my bolt action. I used to collet size the necks and when bolt lift became noticeably stiffer, it was time to bump die the shoulder.
Whether you would be able to extract the NS case (after say, three or four reloads) with a lever, is something I have no experience with.
Good Luck
Its a Savage Arms-Stevens 325BIs that a 788 Remington?
Well they won't run at all unless you put/leave a primer in them They hang up when you try to cycle.
Okay I have the notes from the last rounds that we reloaded:
Bobby notes that he used 170 grain Hornady round nose bullets and 32 grains of Hodgdon lever with Remington primers.
They cycled well, but then again I couldn't tell you a lot about accuracy because of the scope situation.
I shot a couple good groups and the rest were all over the map.
By the way I was very interested to read the instructions for annealing brass because I've never done it before.
When annealing steel you never quench in water, but cool as slowly as possible, using insulation or hot sand to keep it hot a long time.