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The Wylde SPR

John A. said:
Sometimes you can find a triji in the upper range you're wanting to spend.
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Didn't think about Trijicon, will have to do some research.

dieselmudder said:
Check out the primary arms 4-14. FFP. An see how it compares to the vortex. Thats,what I plan to top my .308 bolt gun with when I get done with these semi-auto's
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At 24oz... it's a bit to heavy for what I want.... I know, that's only 6oz more than the vortex... but if i'm gonna count the oz (which apparently this has turned into) I gotta count'm somewhere. If that Vortex came in under 16 oz it would be a no brainer for me. I really like scopes in the 10-12 oz range.... but I can't have everything:rolleyes:
 
Yeah. I thought about the size shortly after I posted. Also with a 44 mm objective makes it kind of bulky.
 
aksavanaman said:
Leupold VX-R Patrol 3-9x40 http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-VX-R-Patrol-30mm-Riflescope-P49445.aspx
OR
Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP http://swfa.com/Vortex-25-10x32-Viper-PST-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P60984.aspx

I can get both of these scopes through each companies respective Mil discounts and the prices are well below those advertised on SWFA. I really like that the Vortex is FFP, but it is a little heavier. Both have illuminated reticles, Leupold has the "Firedot" and with the vortex the entire reticle illuminates. I do have a budget of around $500-600 and would like to break into the higher quality opitcs world. What else is out there that falls in the same category as these guys.
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cant go wrong with either IMO.

All my bolt action guns gave a Leupold ,other than my .270, and simply never ever had an issue or lack of performance. I have one that got a nice ding in it and it has never lost a beat
The Firedot is really cool. I don't own one but have shot a lower power scope with one. It is different than the look of a illuminated reticle, it looks a lot sharper and intense to me but not overkill....small, bright and sharp, not sure how they do it but it is really cool. I about got the 1.25x4 SPR reticle Firedot for my AR but went with the ACSS.

Don't have any exp with the Vortex but never hear a bad word about them


Sounds like your really counting OZ's, have you looked at this new forend from MI ?

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1264

kind of not related but I was talking to the guy I got to know who made the holster for my 29 has been in the Middle East for a good bit of time, served in the 1st Battalion 23rd Infantry Regiment spending nearly six years as a Battalion Sniper Team Leader and Reconnaissance Squad Leader including a deployment to Iraq in support of Operation Iraqi Freedom I & II.

He said he saw the SPR come into theater and they really earned the respect of everyone. With the use of 77gr HPBT he said good reliable 1200 yard fatalities in the hands of the best shooters......that is a damn long way
 
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oli700 said:
Sounds like your really counting OZ's, have you looked at this new forend from MI ?

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1264
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It didn't start out that way, but now it's kind of a challenge you know. I get the folks that are trying to build those 3-4lbs AR's... it's a cool concept and certainly stands out, but at what point does super light weight start interfering with balance and ergonomics... not to mention reliability. I'm not out to build THE lightest SPR I can build, I'm not sure that's a viable concept anyways... if you want real light weight, you gotta go with a light weight pencil barrel... which for the intended use of a mid-long range AR would be sorta silly.

If I can keep this guy around 8lbs with an optic I'll be ecstatic... under 9 I'll be happy:D

To be honest, I'm not really liking all the new Keymod forends... yeah they're light weight, but aren't they all a bit cheese grader-ish? That MI Gen 2 SS is still only a hair over 10oz with the barrel nut... and cheaper. OH I forgot to mention that I opted for the no forward assist upper... not that it saves me a ton of weight... but probably an oz or so;)
 
aksavanaman said:
but at what point does super light weight start interfering with balance and ergonomics... not to mention reliability.
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Don't forget that every ounce you shave off will also begin to interfere with that "balanced recoil signature" you guys were talkin about earlier... :D
 
Funny you mention this... last time I was out at the range my office buddy had a standard 20" KISS... no frills, and a real nice AR. He was running a stock A2 rifle and buffer. Compare that with my Carbine and Spikes T2 buffer.... mine was actually "smoother". Yes, the recoil impulse was much more drastic, but I found it more comfortable.

That said, I'm sure he wasn't running top quality buffer parts either...
 
aksavanaman said:
He was running a stock A2 rifle and buffer. Compare that with my Carbine and Spikes T2 buffer.... mine was actually "smoother". Yes, the recoil impulse was much more drastic, but I found it more comfortable..
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recoil was more drastic but it was smoother.....you lost me
 
oli700 said:
recoil was more drastic but it was smoother.....you lost me
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Lol... how to describe in words... his 20"s had less felt recoil, but because the BCG moved rearward slower, you felt more of the spring compression. The carbine feels more like a sharp pulse... on/off switch... you still lost?
 
I think I get ya. My weakest knowledge area of the AR. I have the rifle buffer system, I understand what different weight buffers do in a carbine but don't really know the trigger point that says time for a heavier buffer, thinking slowing down the bolt so it doesn't unlock too fast ?.....I don't have that option, don't think they make different weights in rifle, I believe it is the heaviest of all. Maybe he messed with spring weight ?.....don't know if there are different weights.
 
Yes there are different spring weights for carbines. As well as different weight buffers for carbines. But heavier isn't always better (despite what some guy on the internet said). And honestly, the rifle buffer and the heaviest (H3) buffer are nearly the same weight and as I have said before, was the original design, most reliable and softest shooting so I am honestly a bigger fan of rifle buffers/tubes even on a carbine.

There are also different diameter gas holes in barrels even from the same length which cause more or less pressure in the gas system. And even different gas port placement now which throws in even more variables.

There are also improperly and misaligned gas blocks. Front sight (gas block) posts aren't as common to being misaligned due to the taper pins and being drilled at the manufacturers' facility, but there are still many who will change stuff out anyway and can screw it up.

All of these factors can contribute to deciding which buffer to choose.

Too light, usually cycles hard. Causing excessive recoil, erratic ejection, damages extracted brass, and sometimes even closes the bolt so hard that it bounces back some causing the bolt the unlock and not ignite a primer.

Too heavy usually cycles softer, but can have short strokes causing misfeeds, doublefeeds and fail to fires and not reliably lock the bolt back because the pressure is too great and the bolt rides over the bolt catch and can also break your bolt catch from striking it too hard.

Those are but a few things off the top of my head that I have seen over the years.
 
What do you make of this?
I changed my bolt to a DPMS, and took the RRA and made it a spare.
Figure at least have the same company bolt and extension since the rest of the rifle doesn't match lol.
As you know the ejector spring that came with the RRA bolt went flat on me so I replaced it and it ran great, thought I was having ammo problems because it got a little finicky out of the blue.
Anyway with this new bolt it still extracts and ejects excellent and in the same place as before, 4 o'clock.
The one and only difference I notice is that all my brass is dented on the mouth, a flat spot where it is hitting the deflector, all of them exactly the same.
Still reload the brass with no issues but I wonder what is causing it.
I took the extractor apart on the new bolt and it doesn't have an o-ring , looks just like the RRA.......a black stud the spring slips over and a spring, that's it.
The spring fits in the claw a lot tighter and the extractor action is a bit stiffer than the RRA even with the new spring I installed.
John , you think its just the small machining nuances in different extractor claws or is it giving a sign I am missing ?
 
@oli700 I took a look at a quick sample of some of my brass and I don't get the same tiny dent at the mouth. And that is with several different AR's over the years, some of which weren't even fired from one of my guns I'm sure.

Occasionally I have a side wall dented, but not at the mouth. And the side wall dents are more likely from it hitting the receiver around/near the ejection port somewhere, and probably where yours is hitting too rather than the deflector itself.

brass001_zps18ba8b23.jpg


And for giggles, the occasional receiver dent

brass003_zpsb89935d4.jpg


Next time you go out, shoot 10 times with each bolt, collect the brass and look at it and then do the same for the other bolt.

I wonder if the ejector tension is stronger with the new bolt, or perhaps the ejector itself may be ever so slightly longer, which would cause it turn sideways in the bolt faster (earlier) as it is being ejected if that is the only change.

But also having an extractor that holds tighter is also going to change the way that it ejects some too if the claw is not wanting to let it go (more tension in one than the other).

I don't think it would have anything much to do with the gas system unless one was grossly lighter/heavier than the other bolt, but I don't see that being so different that it would cause that.
 
I'll do that. Every now and again I get that sharp crease like you got there in the same place as you but this just a mellow flat spot . I am not seeing any brass deposits any where else other than the outer half of the deflector
Runs like a top
 
Sorry AK, still in commercial break.....

John, upon inspecting the carrier last night I noticed a bit of wear and a burr on the edge that engages the hammer as the carrier travels rearward cocking the hammer. Is it normal to see that burr where it hits the hammer ?......I suppose one material needs to be softer and I think it makes since for the hammer to be harder, just wondering what you know or have seen

Its not acting funny at all and it has a few thousand rounds on it but was wondering
 
Shoot me a pic of it. Most hammers and bolts themselves are really hard.
 
oli700 said:
Sorry AK, still in commercial break.....

John, upon inspecting the carrier last night I noticed a bit of wear and a burr on the edge that engages the hammer as the carrier travels rearward cocking the hammer. Is it normal to see that burr where it hits the hammer ?......I suppose one material needs to be softer and I think it makes since for the hammer to be harder, just wondering what you know or have seen

Its not acting funny at all and it has a few thousand rounds on it but was wondering
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No worries, this is all education to me. I never really did a bunch of research on accurate AR's and the part's associated with them... until now. Everything from muzzle devices that kill accuracy to different spring/buffer combinations. Mind = Blown
 
Buying frenzies for gun stuff are kewl.

I think I would like that dust cover after seeing their video. Not exactly sure why they have to put "Multi-Cal" on the things, but it seems like a pretty cool design. Being able to "adjust the retaining detent to compensate for reciever wear" seems rather superfluous. M16/M4 rifles with millions of rounds thru them don't have that issue. But OK for them thinking that it might help.

I would run one, just because it is so damn easy to install and remove.
 
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